I stopped using anything.. I just make sure the fit is decent between the layers temp is right and give it a min at temp welds up a treat everytime.

you are welcome any time Rob!!

lightening  PXL_20240424_193043643-1.jpg

Ashoken sunset  IMG_20240625_185610_591-1.jpg

next  PXL_20240920_163107904-1.jpg

looks like it came out pretty good. I started making mine from O1 or W1 and hardening them then tempering back to low 50s, helps keep them from gettin...

only times i have gotten this kind of look was in overheating the welds by a significant amount, once welded i haven't been able to reverse it. I did...

architectural bronze sucks to work with and has a more brassy color. Tin bronze is still available as casting shot I use it fairly regularly, it reall...

flair the butt of the handle it will make that safer to use. you also need a lanyard attachment point. MP

if it was me i would forge it from something like 80crv2 forge to just under 1/8 thick at the spine profile and harden/temper it , around 57-58 ish t...

video I did for my pateron a couple years ago might help/p> MP

the amount of force required to flex the blade is cross section, the yield point (the point of bend of breakage) is steel choice and heat treat. in...

doubtful it would be from too low a temp in thermocycleing I would look at the normalizing. after forging with so many cycles especially if you do the...

that's is an auto hamon, the blade failed to through harden. You could up the hardening temp a bit, might be your oven is a bit cold or add time to yo...