BRION TOMBERLIN: PS sorry i forgot to say thank you for the tip.
BRION TOMBERLIN: again, thank you for pointing that out. I have been thinking about it. I got one side cleaned to 220, traced the hamon, and did some measuring. It does have some size variation as it's not a straight hamon, but it is mostly 3/4ths of an inch with the blade being a tich under one 1 3/4ths of an inch (I only have a ruler and tape measure to measure with, so I can't get more precise. So it is really close...I think I just have to risk it as I am not very skilled at blueing back steel and dont have the best torch. As I currently understand the it I had a crack when I asked if we could do a bend test with the master smith I went to do the test the first time, is the biggest stress point on the blade where the bend test is concerned is The plunge cut. on this blade, I got lucky, and its is mostly pearlite(i think that's the right form to refer to it as) at the plunge cut.
Well, 220 grit spine-to-edge hand polish is finished next is 400. ...Those are not scratches near the ricasso... that's the reflection of my hand and phone.
The following is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth.
The performance test is designed to show the smith's ability to produce a blade with specific characteristics and heat treatment. Part of that process is identifying what physical characteristics are necessary, and which ones will help or hinder the blade's ability to perform the rigors of the test.
the biggest stress point on the blade where the bend test is concerned is The plunge cut.
So you must ask yourself, "is the plunge cut necessary and does it help or hinder the blade's ability to perform the test?"
I think I just have to risk it as I am not very skilled at blueing back steel and dont have the best torch.
Taking risks in your JS or MS test is not advisable. The test is designed to show that you have confidence in your ability and control over your process. A simple plumber's torch from the hardware store is enough of a torch to blue-back temper a blade. Practise makes perfect and provides the experience you lack. Somewhere on this forum, MS Ed Caffrey gives a detailed explaination of how to do this properly. It's likely in this subforum: ABS Master Smith and Journeyman Smith Testing – American Bladesmith Society Forum
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
Taking risks in your JS or MS test is not advisable. The test is designed to show that you have confidence in your ability and control over your process. A simple plumber's torch from the hardware store is enough of a torch to blue-back temper a blade. Practise makes perfect and provides the experience you lack. Somewhere on this forum, MS Ed Caffrey gives a detailed explaination of how to do this properly. It's likely in this subforum: ABS Master Smith and Journeyman Smith Testing – American Bladesmith Society Forum
True i agree and i know how to do it thanks to a 2 day non abs class i took but it has more to do with the Hamon its just so close it feels like a case of if its not broke dont fix it. here is a picture and i think it shows why i am hesitant to blue it.
as to the crack at the in the plung in the first one i did the bend test...that was i had a fairly thick spine and most of the bend happened at the first 3 inches of the blade on the one i did with the master smith. and according to Mr. Howard Clark it was a pass on the bend test. its the wrope cut i worry about as that is were i faild.
400 Is done...next is 600 edge to spine, then 800 tip to tang, followed by at least rounds of etching, steel wool buff, and green buff compound, and I will be able to start on the handle. (sweat drop emoji) I am putting a LOT of work into something to be destroyed, but its my philosophy that you should not go halfway. Make something that might pass the aesthetic judging along with the performance test (even though it's a full tang).
800 hand polish finished tip to tang.
Handle rough finished and riveted.
😯 After I recover my wits when and i cut through through an (according to my order form) 1-inch rope...i was shocked i got it in one try 😮
I ran it threw 2 4 foot 2x4s after dancing a jig because I actually cut the rope...and shaved hair. I will be doing another rope cut in the future before I take the test...but all I have not done to this is the bend test... 😶
Finished: I added my maker mark with a cheap engraver made by Dremel. The handle is at a bad angle, but it's on the mat's zero mark. So I will contact Howard Clark, the master smith I plan to retake the test with(if a new MS has popped up in MN that is closer to me) again next month for a March Test because I dont have the $$$ to get the gas to get down there until March as I am taking a day class on Copper jewelry making next month learn to work copper and I need a new battery for my car.
It took me so long to finish this thing because I was dragging my feet as I needed to get 2x4s.
