I have an old saw blade that is L1 and I got it down to this shape. Well my handle tang isn't great. SO, I was thinking of adding some to it and making it wider/taller so I could put a full tang handle on.
But then I was thinking why not do a hidden tang with a peened end.
Leave most of the handle thickness then take the end and draw it out a little so I can peen it over onto a 4140 hammer style pommel.
Thoughts on this being a good or bad idea?
I wish I could offer you some advice but I have never worked with old saw blade material before or L1.
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Well also looking for peening advice on something like this. I have not tried it.
I just know to use a thousand lighter taps rather than 5 heavy ones.
but will the L1 peen over nice?
Thinking I will HT blade then temper then really soften the end so I can peen it but keep it hard enough.
sometimes I just like talking it out to tell myself that I got it and its ok too.
I never done a through tang and peened the end before either lol. I have only been doing hidden tang with pin and epoxy to hold it all together.
I might be a 100% wrong on this but I think L1 can air harden if so it might not be a good idea
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|quoted:
Well also looking for peening advice on something like this. I have not tried it.
I just know to use a thousand lighter taps rather than 5 heavy ones.
but will the L1 peen over nice?
Thinking I will HT blade then temper then really soften the end so I can peen it but keep it hard enough.
sometimes I just like talking it out to tell myself that I got it and its ok too.
I am not familiar with the correct HT process for L1, so my first consideration would be to obtain reliable HT data for that steel. Next I would suggest taking a few pieces of that saw blade and experimenting with the HT process and the peening to determine viability. Through tangs with a peened end will typically require a butt plate to peen against, or a butt plate and a peen block. When I do this, I also glue the handle to the tang. I just modify my clamping jig to accommodate the tang sticking out the heel of the handle. I do the peening after the glue is cured.
When you do the tests, Try it at least two ways, first through harden, temper and draw back to gray, and also just normalize, do not harden and temper. See which way works best.
If your peening tests prove the steel to be unsuitable for the peened end, you can always cut a notch in the tang and braze a softer metal to the tang for the peened end.
Joshua States
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Super good advice, thank you.
Ill hope to post an update this weekend.
Thanks Joshua.
