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I believe the area where the tang and blade meet is a little too wide. Everyone’s advice is certainly appreciated and I am here to learn all I can. Thank you all for your time!

My apologies the image didn’t attach.

Devan,

Your question pertains to the forged profile. You can go back and forge it narrower if you want. Is it a small anvil or a huge knife?

I would say something on using a rasp. While the name Brute de Forge might seems to indicate crude and rough, there is a certain amount of finesse that even a brute knife needs to have lest you make it unusable. For instance, forging down the teeth will leave shuts in the blade. If you forge the blade's edge entirely, you will have these shuts along the blade's edge; the last place where they need to be.

I make a lot of Brute knives and this is what I recommend from my viewpoint:

Grind the teeth that are above the surface of the rasp off, leaving the undercuts. Now its a bare rasp.

Forge the handle, including the flared guard, and profile.

Grind the bevels and clean up the full tang handle. Joe Keeslar shallow hollow grinds depending on the blade size. I flat grind. Either way you choose to grind, this gets the shuts completely out of the blade's edge.

Know when to forge and know when to grind. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

BTW, the picture is still a bit large. Next size down should take care of that. Thanks

Lin, thank you for taking the time to offer the advice you have. The next Brute I attempt to forge I will take all of this into consideration. Also a question regarding the heat treat of a brute. Do you use Rasps in your brute knives or a known steel? I was not sure how I was going to heat treat this knife, Im not going to now since I have forged shuts into the blade, but in the future on other knives what would you recommend? Again thank you very much for your time and advice!