@Michael Samdahl yes that is my channel. I had high hopes of doing many more videos, but time is what it is and there are only a few.

That's an excellent video. Thanks, Joshua.

Thank you for the video! Adding acetate sheets to my shopping list.

Thanks for video. Ironically  the day you dropped it I was at Ed Caffreys discussing guards  and pins. 

Thanks for the feedback guys. I tried to upvote all of your posts, but my computer and the website are still not getting along with each other.....

I think if you have one of those fancy knife-maker vices, you could use that to hold the blade and just build the block and anvil portion. I don't have one of those vices, so I built the fixture I hvae.

I just watched and Enjoyed the video and learned a lot i will be employing when i can get the tooling set up to make the stuff for this. You have given me a lot of good Tips over the years, and i want to say thank you for that. (Even though I probably seem to argue, it's more that I tend to want to try to get as much information as i can.) but  I think I might be able to shave some time off setting your rivets and a bit more. I sketched out designs here since it's delicate work I think these might work better but am not 100% on it, and it's all theory right now. (Sorry, I might not be using the right terminology) and am going on no sleep last night. However, first off, you can put links into the description of your videos, and it would be nice to know just where I can go to get those polishing abrasives and pins. also I think we can fabricate the stand vise using wood by screwing it together. (it likely will need to be clamped down on a workbench or screwed down as the weight is not there, but it should work i can draw it out some other time if you want.) The downside is it won't last as long, but the plus side is its' I am just starting out friendly'  (The jagged brakes in the twisty part of the bolt are just to show it is longer than shown as I have blueprint reading training).

1. you're using pin punches to inlay the rivet like you were setting a gem into something.

2: in theory, This will likely shave time off your doming of the rivet heads, and its light work so the protective steps should work once you're done hammering...or it will crack the bone/Horn/wood i am not 100% on this as i have yet to try it in the context of setting a rivet on a knife handle but its been used for centuries. it should be possible to just drill a hole just deep enough for the dome into a pin punch, or you can use the right size ball cutter and a dremel to put one in...likely easier to use the dremel. you likely already know about these however, you never know unless you bring something like this up.

3: its not to scale, but this is what you're currently using from what I can see.

4: in theory, this is an improvement switching to a Hex bolt ground flat with a small hole just deep enough to hold a finished domed rivet should give a bit more support to the piece...might be a good idea to take the top of the bolt to gray to soften it...or again it could damage it I am not sure.

5. If you tap the steel holding the bolt, you should just need a bolt, and likely a washer is better than a lock washer as its what keeps tension on my grinder... A tap and die set is essential tooling for any bladesmith...and also welders are not essential tooling for just starting out. and that would be all you need, along with the bolt and nut for this. I think this will work...and you can have more than one of them to add more stability.

You also could glue some Leather on both plates to make for a gentler hold (but should still tape it up just to avoid accidental cluts moment injurys), i have a small vise i did this with i use for filing and hand polishing the spine and ricasso...Otherwise, i clamp them flat to a board with a bevel on it to minimize risk of injury.

I hope these are improvements and helpful. have a good day and keep up the great work.

Question: were is a good place to get a thick piece of steel and steel plate like that?