Sounds to me like you need to consider a "good" 2x72 grinder. It's gona be around $2k+, but NOTHING will improve your knives more, or faster than a quality 2x72 machine.

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Sounds to me like you need to consider a "good" 2x72 grinder. It's gona be around $2k+, but NOTHING will improve your knives more, or faster than a quality 2x72 machine.

That is definitely a high item on my wish list but I didn't want to get in over my head on a piece of equipment that is above my skill level.

My thought was you wouldn't give a kid just learning chords a signature Eric Clapton guitar. Or am I overthinking?

Andy, Ed is correct. A solid 2x72 is the best money you can spend no matter what your skill level may be. It will help make you a better bladesmith and it is one of if not the best investment you can make for your shop.

Ok then. I'm here to learn from the best, so I guess I'll listen when they tell me what to do! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />

Take a course or two before you buy anything. Learning to use the tool, will help you decide what to buy.

I took the 2 week Introduction Course before I bought any knife related tools.

My 2 cents.

Bob

This statement caught my attention: "I have an old 4 x 36 belt/disk grinder and a 1 x 30 belt grinder that I stumble through projects with."

By your own admission, the weak link in your production is using tools that are not designed for the task. The 2x72 is the workhorse of the blade making world right now. Not having one and doing what you are doing is like trying to make custom shelving with a handsaw and a jack plane. Can you do it, and do it well? Sure you can, but the time and effort far exceeds what you would be able to achieve if you had a table saw and a jointer. The learning curve to get really top notch results is also much steeper with the tools that are not specifically designed for the task. In the end, you will get much better and faster using tools designed for the work you do.

Using your guitar analogy (I used to teach guitar lessons), a beginner is going to learn much faster on a high quality instrument than they would on a cheap one. The good instrument is easier to play and provides a much lower learning curve because the student isn't fighting with the tool. I met too many parents who wouldn't pay a few hundred dollars for a good quality guitar because they were afraid their kid would give up after a while. I would tell them the most certain way they could ensure that he would give up is to make him learn on a crappy guitar.

Robert gives very good advice. Take a class that has good equipment and learn how to use it before you buy. Talk with guys who have different models and have used different ones too. If anyone ever tells you "you have to buy this one, because it's the best one out there", walk away and talk to other people. I've worked on many different ones including some homemade models that were very good. There are lots of different ones on the market and more arriving everyday.

I would go to an ABS intro to bladesmithing 80hr school. I did and it was one of the coolest experiences of my adult life. The stuff I learned in that class will save me years of trial and error. I had top notch instructors "Brion Tomberlin and Greg Neely and the great Don McIntosh" that knew their stuff. Take lot's of notes.

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This statement caught my attention: "I have an old 4 x 36 belt/disk grinder and a 1 x 30 belt grinder that I stumble through projects with."

By your own admission, the weak link in your production is using tools that are not designed for the task.

I've always been good at telling on myself.

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I would go to an ABS intro to bladesmithing 80hr school. I did and it was one of the coolest experiences of my adult life. The stuff I learned in that class will save me years of trial and error. I had top notch instructors "Brion Tomberlin and Greg Neely and the great Don McIntosh" that knew their stuff. Take lot's of notes.

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Take a course or two before you buy anything. Learning to use the tool, will help you decide what to buy.

I took the 2 week Introduction Course before I bought any knife related tools.

My 2 cents.

Bob

All three of you say the same thing: Take a class.

I would absolutely love to do do that and there just so happens to be a little place in Troy, Ohio that is only 2.5 hours away from me. Unfortunately, a two week hiatus from work is something that is not in the cards for me in the near future. I'm in the electrical/instrumentation shop of a power plant with one other guy, so I'm lucky enough just to find time to take a vacation.

I say that but I do intend on taking the intro class at some point, the only question is when I can. I know it will make leaps and bounds in my progression.

Also, I'll take any loose change you have Bob. (and from anyone else!)

I love my Grizzly 2x72 sander buffer for 400 from a guy getting out of the hobby. https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G1015-Knife-Sander-Buffer/dp/B0000DD0AL/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

then get some good belts and a buffer wheel or 3 and compound.

Caution on buffers, they can take things out of your hand faster than a fat kid and cake. Granted this will be a sharp object and being tossed who knows where... its a killer if you are not aware.

But if it was me, that's what I would get. I had a couple smaller sanders and went from taking all day to do a grind to an hour or less.

then if money allows an anvil that is nice sized and priced. Anvils are all over on FB marketplace or auctions. I got mine for 1.50/pound 10 years ago. now they are 3-5 for a decent used one.

My excuse was that they won't go down in value unless you ruin it.

that's my 2 copper of how to spend other peoples money. lol

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Also, I'll take any loose change you have Bob. (and from anyone else!)

Here's a low-tech, low cost alternative. I know a few guys who used this method for a couple of years before they saved enough to buy (or make) a 2x72.

(One of these guys even made German longswords)

A 4-1/2" angle grinder with sanding discs. With a little practice and a steady hand, you can cut a pretty nice bevel.

Make yourself a stop jig (also good for file work) like this and you can keep the plunge cuts nice and straight and even with each other.

Joshua, they are great tools. I've been using this one from Jantz for a few years now:

https://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/fg101.htm

It's been great for me. I think since I can't take the time to go to a class, I'll find a decent grinder for around $2000. Maybe a Reeder or Esteem after poking around some older threads.

Here's a pretty interesting option. Before I bought a Grizzly I would look here. Not saying Grizzly is bad. But around the same money you could get something more versatile.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w8bmPVk8_Xo