Actually, those are not bluing tanks. I welded those up out of 5/32" steel plate which is heavier than the bluing tanks.

These do hold about 5.6 gallons each. They are 7 x 7 x 36.

I keep the two different oils I use in the tanks which are on dollies so I can roll them out of the way when not in use.

Just about everything I have is on wheels - hydraulic press, forges, etc., in addition to the things you see here. Even my "Mr. Twister" pipe threading machine for Twist Damascus is on wheels.

Even more things.

I like wheels - a lot.

This will give an idea of how I like my forges on wheels.

Of course, I have now moved to a new location and these are old pictures, but I now also have a third forge on wheels which is oval in shape and much longer for longer billets.

But I like to move things out of the way when not needed.

And then we have - "Mr. Twister"! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//ohmy.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':o' />

Speaking of wheels...and post vises, here's another version. A tire, on its rim, filled in with concrete. She holds put, but can be rolled about a bit when needed.

Phil, I bet you get good mileage on that!

This is a great thread full of pics, sizes and ideas. I'm in the process of rearranging my shop, and I will be incorporating a lot of these ideas. I really like the wheels and dollies ideas to make it easier to move things around, so I can service my tractor and mower when needed.

I just edited and uploaded a video of Master Smith Daniel Warren demonstrating his clip grinding attachment. Click on the screen below to view the video of Daniel Warren that was filmed by Bill Wiggins. Thank you Daniel and Bill!

[media] http://www.youtube.c...h?v=GKrQcTueY4w [/media]

I think there's a LOT!! of people holdin' out on us. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//angry.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':angry:' />

This is a great topic guys. Sorry to have been slow to reply; but I have been tied up short since Christmas. No pictures but a handy tip is to make your handle and guard templates out of thin, clear material; plexiglas, lexan, etc.

It allows you to set up your handles to take advantage of the most pleasing grain flow in your handle material. Just having the grain follow the lines of your knife makes a huge difference in the final result. It also allows you to set up mammoth and stag so that your pins/bolts come out in the most advantageous position. Drilling in an age crack in ivory is a good thing to avoid; most times.

Shop cleaning and maintenece this week. Still haven't recovered from L.R. yet.

M

Mike, you gotta remember your approching the big 60!

Russell

As we're showing off pictures of our wheeled leg vices............ <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Wanted to add something here, even though the month is up.

Here's a 9x12 B-grade surface plate I just got.

I already have two others, one that's actually AA grade, and another larger B-grade one for usual surface plate work, but I wanted one for lapping. The reason I chose this, over using my regular surface plates, is that using abrasives on them can destroy the accuracy. I know that probably doesn't matter if all you do is scribe blades with your plate, but if you rely on it for other operations, you're shooting yourself in the foot.

So, for $40 shipped, I got a 9x12x3 two ledge (so I can clamp stuff to it) B grade plate from Grizzly. Way flatter, durable, and more appropriately sized that the piece of marble tile I was using, and seemed like a dirt cheap investment to save my nicer plates.

In the background, you may notice some other cool fixtures, like a 5C collet indexer, Harig Grind-All, and a radius wheel dresser, which allow some pretty awesome things to be done on the surface grinder or mill.