I am considering purchasing a pyrometer (maybe infrared) for checking the temperature of my forge; plus other uses. Anyone got any advice on brand/model selection and where to purchase?
Hey Steve;
I ordered one last week. I was having some weld issues so I just broke down and ordered one.
Mine is from ThermoWorks out of Linden, Utah. www.thermoworks.com I talked to a guy named Andrew.
The unit I ordered was their Therma K with a high temp ceramic probe.
So simple even an Okie can work it and works like a charm.
Costs was well under most places I looked. If you call you even get a tech who knows exactly what you want AND speaks american.
Let me know if I can give you any more info.
Mike
Mike Williams
Master Smith
I originally got mine from Southeastern Heater Supply. When the thermocouple went bad I called Omega. I to got a real person. After explaining what I wanted it for he told me what I needed and gave me a price. I've had it over 2300 degrees with no problems.
Dale
Dale Huckabee
Journeyman Smith
dalehuckabeeknives.weebly.com
Thanks Guys!!
I've checked out these web sites and will use the information to decide what I want to purchase. I was thinking that I would like to buy a touchless infrared unit. (I don't know why....) But, they're pretty expensive.
I too had a problem with welding a project and want to check the temperature of my forge. I was working on a piece that I hoped to have finished for the Blade Show. It is a very complicated forge weld and I got about 95 % of the welds made, but not all and ruined the piece. I lost a week's work and all of my confidence that I could complete the project in time for the show. Very frustrating...........
mike
Have you used your temperture probe yet? I have had one on my shopping list for some time. It sure is priced right. Let us know how it works,and whether you would recommend it!
Russell
Hi Russell;
Yep; used it as soon as it came in. My welding forge was running too cool. In my infinite wisdom somewhere in the past I thought more gas=more heat; nope.
I started cutting down the gas pressure and the heat started coming back up; now at 2375 deg. This is as hot as my forge will run with the blower thats on it.
Got carried away and recalibated my tempering ovens while I was at it.
The probe works well. It's not supposed to be placed in direct flame so I ran a one inch pipe through the forge doors and put the probe in the pipe. Pipe is much cheaper than probe.
I can highly recommend Thermoworks.
Mike
Mike Williams
Master Smith
The probe works well. It's not supposed to be placed in direct flame
The probe not supposed to be in the fire is one of the reasons that I was looking into an infrared unit. Too, I thought that maybe I could use it to check things like the temperature of a blade that I am thermo-cycling, the temperature that I am heating a blade to with a torch to edge harden, etc... And infrared units have about a one second reaction time to register the temperature, which is quicker than most probe style gauges.
Omega has a high temperature infrared model (2700 degree) for $350. That's more than I wanted to spend. I need to call and ask them some questions about using it before I commit to purchasing.
Something that you might want to consider is getting a pyrometer that can double as a controller. I didn't. Now I'm planning on building a heat treat oven and will have to buy a seperate controller. Just a thought.
Dale
Dale Huckabee
Journeyman Smith
dalehuckabeeknives.weebly.com
Steve;
Something that might be a consideration; back when I had a job that actually paid, we did a lot of thermal imaging. We had problems reading through moving air. Anything that disrupted the return signal to the IR unit gave us eronious readings.
Shooting a beam through the flames of a forge opening could be problematic.
just a thought.
Mike
Mike Williams
Master Smith
Shooting a beam through the flames of a forge opening could be problematic.
Thanks Mike!! That's the kind of information that I was looking for. If I continue to consider the infrared unit, at least I'll know to ask the supplier if it will work on flames.
The Omega infrared has a socket to attach a probe, so it could still be used to check the forge temperature in that manner. I'll have to decide if the other things that I thought that I may use it for are worth the extra money. Kinda' doubt it.............
Something that you might want to consider is getting a pyrometer that can double as a controller.
Dale, I've got an electric heat treat oven; so I don't need a controller for that. I have heard of guys using a controller on a propane forge, but I'm not sure that I am interested in putting a controller on my forge; yet. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
For a while now I have been using a PID controller, along with a type K thermocouple to create my own Pyometers. You can purchase a single line readout PID controller on Ebay for about $40, and molded junction type K thermocouples from Omega.com for abaout $20. For about $60 you have an accurate pyrometer. The first pyrometer I ever purchased was a unit from a Pottery supply outfit, and at that time it was just shy of $200...now it's over $300!
If anyone would like more information on the PIDs or the thermocouples I use, feel free to drop me an email. I'd be happy to send you links to the specific items I mentioned.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
Hi Ed,
Can you place the probe for the type K thermo couple and PID set-up in the propane forge? And, how do I get those links?
Thanks,
Ed C.
Here are some links to the parts I use.....
For the PID: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350385888649&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
The above PID is a single line readout (one row of digits). There is a row of terminals on the back....all you have to do is wire a 110V plug to terminals 1 & 2 (I used an old lamp cord) and wire a thermocouple to the last two terminals (thermocouples must be wired to the correct terminals....+ and - wires). You could also wire a toggle switch in for power on/off, but I'm lazy, and just plug/unplug mine from the wall. There are many uses for these PIDs! I have a dual line readout on my salt tank, one on my quench tank, and another on an old Evenheat oven.
Which ever one you buy, make sure you get the manual....there are a number of internal settings on these things, and once you learn what they are, you're gona love these little things!
Here's a link for the dual line readout model: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350384161137&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I've been purchasing my PIDs from that guy for several years now. He's been good to deal with, and communicates well.
You can use just about any Type K thermocouple, but I like the ones from Omgea.com for the quality/price ratio: http://www.omega.com/pptst/JTIN.html
If you go down near the bottom of that page, you can "build your own" thermocouple. Here's what I normally put in each of the boxes....
1=K
2=SS
3=14
4=U
5=12
This gives me a Type K thermocouple, Stainless steel sheath, 1/4" diameter, Ungrounded, 12" length.
I have this setup in all three forges in my shop. I simply drilled a hole in the forge shell, out of the direct flame path, and inserted the thermocouple. For those who might not be familiar with thermocouples, you only need to insert approx. 1" of the thermocouple into the forge. You can also bend these thermocouples to meet your needs, as long as you don't "kink" them.
I've become so accustom to having pyrometers on my forges, that it's hard to be without them.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
Thanks Ed!!! This is great information! I never knew anything about PID controllers. I appreciate all that you have provided here!
Ed:
Thanks for the information. I appreciate all of the valuable information and assistance that you continue to provide on the ABS Forum.
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan