I've moved a lot of LGs around....from 25lb to 100lb models. Most of the time I've rented a bobcat of the necessary size, with forks. If a Little Giant DOES NOT have a motor mounted, the easiest way is a sling strap through the frame. If the hammer is sitting on a "platform"(bolted to it), forks under the platform is the simplest way. When moving any piece of equipment, 2 people (driver and a spotter), and SLOW AND EASY is the safest way to get it done.

In locations where I didn't have the ability to use a bobcat, I've rigged up large tripods with a chain hoist, lifted the hammer, and then backed a truck up under it.

If you're just moving something heavy around your shop....and you have a concrete floor, nothing is better then several pieces of 1/2 pipe. Again, two people is best.....use a prybar to lift the edge of a hammer....put pieces of pipe under it, and use the pipe like a conveyor.....just keep moving each piece of the back, to the front as you "roll" the machine along.

In my younger days, when I have the big red "S" on my chest, I moved 25lb Little Giants with a heavy duty dolly, and two people. That was pretty stupid, but when you're young, you think you can do anything! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Just remember that Little Giant hammers have a high center of gravity! They tip easily, and once they get going, the only thing you can do is GET OUT OF THE WAY! I helped a fella once who found a 50lb LG in a field.....he was a young guy, super excited. We used the farmer's tractor/bucket to get it on his pickup.....and after arguing with him that he needed to block the hammer up and strap it down BEFORE he moved the truck, he didn't. Less then 100' and the hammer tipped over and crushed the side of his truck bed to the wheel well.

Just think about what you're doing, take it SLOW AND EASY, and things will be good. Get in a hurry, or don't think it through, and something is going to get damaged, or somebody is going to get hurt.

I took my 50# to Nebraska and had "the man" - Sid Sudemier - rebuild my hammer.

For the long drive home his method was simple.

He hooked a chain through ONE SIDE of the "C" - not wrapping around the drive shaft, but both legs of the chain on one side - with the bucket on a tractor.

We sloooooooooooooowwwwwwwwwly lay the hammer down on its side, keeping the chain on the up-side of the main shaft so as not to put lateral stress against the main bearings.

Then we re-positioned the chain to lift the hammer straight up laying in the horizontal position - flat-ways.

The tractor stayed still and we backed the truck bed under it.

Layed the hammer flat in the truck with old tires under it to act as cushions.

There is no attention needed to keeping the hammer upright. It's laying flat.

This was by the one man on this planet who has loaded and unloaded more hammers than anyone I can think of.

I tried - in vain - to get Little Giant to do a video of this before Sid retired.

Ed's idea on pipe is a great way to make adjustments in the shop. When I moved to my new shop from Illinois to Minnesota, I brought the hammer up like I explained in the first part.

When I got to my new shop, which is 50 feet long, I realized I could place my 2 ton cherry picker/engine hoist around the back of the hammer! I just jacked it up about 1" off the floor and rolled it in one motion from one end of the shop to the other.

Could not have been easier.

Ed and karl, I really and I mean really appreciate the feedback and the help you have provided. It is kind of a very nerve racking experience for me because I am working with something that could be very dangerous if done wrong. I like the idea of using the 1/2 inch pipe and very well intend to use it. My current status is that we have a 1/2 ton pickup truck and have no trailer. The hammer is located pretty far back on a gravel road and lots of hills. The plus side is it lies only 30 minutes away from my house. Also the hammer is sitting in a small room with only a small shop door to unload through with very little room to maneuver. This model does have a motor mounted also and completely ready to go. I know what you mean Ed being that I am pretty young myself and feeling that S appear at times! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//laugh.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' /> Ed I just gotta say also that I take safety seriously and have followed a lot of advice you have given since I was young and have several of your dvds which talk about great safety practices so thank you. I wish that there was a video like that Karl because I am a better visual learner and that would be very nice to see. As of now just not 100% what to do but am asking around and gathering advice.

Evan,

I've not moved a LG but when it came time to add my press to the shop I used a pallet jack which I found perfect for the job as I don't have a high ceiling or doorway.

Gary

Hi Evan,

A 25 lb LG only weighs 800-900 lbs. It's going to be relatively easy to move it. I've moved several hammers, some of them for thousands of miles. I recommend renting a small tractor or Bobcat if it's at all possible. I have used the Log tripod and chain hoist method with great success too, but it's very time consuming and potentially dangerous if you've never done it before. If you have to move it across the shop floor to the door, and can't get to it with a machine, I recommend dismantling the hammer. None of the parts on a 25 LG are too heavy for a couple guys to lift. If you have not worked on these machines before, make sure you take lots of pictures before you take it apart so you can put it back together properly. It's a simple machine without many parts, but stripping the frame will get it down to about 500 lbs, and make it far less top heavy. At that point, you can simply rock the hammer by hand to get the pipes under it and roll it out of the shop manually. Your half ton truck will easily handle the weight of the machine. If you're not confident with rigging and lifting heavy things, I would not recommend laying it down on its side. Just securely tie the top of the frame down to both sides of the truck, and front and back if possible. A four way "X" to the four corners of the truck bed is ideal. Also, bring some blocks of wood to block in the base of the hammer so the bottom can't slide around.

Good luck and have fun!

Slow and steady , used a bobcat to load my 50lb

Used a Diesel engine hoist (borrowed from friend) to unload , getting it to the back corner of my knife shop was fun <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//angry.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':angry:' /> but rewarding indeed !!

Thank you all very much for all of the help you provided! I safely moved the power hammer into the shop and it is all set up and ready to go.