Hey Tom,

Looks like we're a little slow about providing you with an answer. I'm typing up a response for you. Hope to have it ready to post soon. Didn't want you to think that you were being ignored. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

I have my anvils (3 of them) sitting directly on the wooden block . I cut two pieces of plywood the shape of each side of the anvil base. I have these nailed with 4" spikes into the block , so now the anvil can't move around side to side. Now I use 20 or 22 guage sheet metal to make 4 straps which I form over the 4 corners of the anvil base and using fender washers and 4" spikes once again I nail these into the block securing the anvil down. Using the fender washers the straps seem to get slightly streched creating a very tight hold down. I never had much luck with clamps or chains and these have been going stong for quite awhile now without loosening. Hope this helps.

Thanks Steve. Thanks Paul. Anything helps!. T.

Hello Tom. Personally I have my anvils on a wooden base. These bases were built up from 2X10's for the large anvil and 2X6's for the smaller anvil. Basically the boards were cut to length and then assembled in layers. This allows me to adjust the height fairly easily.

I have used a stump, but these work better and are not expensive. I think the lumber cost me around $50 for the big one. They are assembled with deck screws in each layer. I have also used one of the metal stands and it worked fine. They are pricey but work well.

Brion

Tom:

I made an anvil stand for my 275 pound anvil from instructions and plans provided to me by Steve and David Kane at Kane and Sons Blacksmith's Depot in Candler, North Carolina. The stand is constructed of scrap floor trusses, two oak boards, 4 threaded rods, and 8 washers and nuts for the rods.

I have attached a diagram of the design and a photo of the stand with the 275 pound anvil that has been held securely in place for many years in my shop. The same construction was used to make the anvil stands that are in use at the ABS Bladesmithing School at Haywood Community College in North Carolina.

Tom,

I have seen, and used, anvils placed on just about everything imaginable. An anvil stand serves two purposes. It places the anvil at the proper height for the smith to work and also provides a solid base for the anvil. A solid base is important so that the force of the smith's hammer blows are not lost. Also, a good, properly heat treated anvil will rebound the smith's hammer after each forging strike. This effectively reduces the amount of physical labor the smith has to use in forging because the smith doesn't have to lift the entire weight of the hammer for each blow. A solid anvil base will aid the anvil in rebounding the smith's hammer. I have never seen an anvil base that was so poor that it totally mitigated a good anvil's ability to rebound a hammer to some extent. Conversely, I have never seen a base good enough to significantly improve the rebound abilities of a "dead" anvil.

Over the many centuries of blacksmithing, there have been millions of anvils placed on stumps, or sections of a tree truck. This provides a decent base for an anvil because the anvil is resting on end grain wood. End grain is less compressible than side grain wood. I have both of my anvils on bases similar to the one in Brion's photo. Although this is what I am using, I do not consider this to be an idea style of base because the anvil is resting on side grain wood. Also, the many stacked layers almost certainly have some space between the materials, making this type of base less solid. If you choose to use this method of construction, I would recommend using a construction adhesive, or epoxy between the layers of wood.

The type of base shown in Dan Cassidy's photo is to me the ideal style of wood base. The anvil is supported by end grain wood and the construction method allows the materials to be joined tightly. I would also consider using a construction adhesive between the materials to maximize the rigidness of the assembly.

Carrying on the theme of the ultimate anvil stand, <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> there are a couple more connections to consider; the connection between the anvil and the base and also between the base and the floor. If your anvil base rocks on the floor, you do not have a solid connection to the floor and are losing some of the effectiveness of the base.

Most anvil bottoms are left as cast and are not perfectly flat. It is possible to take your anvil to a machine shop and have them mount the anvil upside down on a milling machine and fly cut the bottom flat. One cool idea that I have seen is to use Acraglas to bed the anvil to the base. Clay was used to create a dam around the area where the anvil's feet would set. Acraglas was poured into this dammed up area. The anvil's bottom was coated with a release agent and then placed into the Acraglas.

It also helps to have the anvil solidly mounted to the base by means of steel straps, or other rigid connections that can be tightened down on the anvil's feet. One of the slickest methods that I have seen is using two chains. One end of each chain was connected to the side of the anvil base by an eye bolt. The other ends of the chains were connected to turn-buckles on the opposite side of the anvil base. Each chain was pulled across the feet of the anvil at the opposite end of the anvil base from the eye bolts. The chains formed an "X" on each side of the anvil base. (Wish I had a picture) The turn-buckles were tightened, tensioning the chains against each other and pulling down on the feet of the anvil.

Now that I have provided you with more information than you were expecting, I'll step back and say that my anvil bases are not at all as elaborate as I have described here; and I get along just fine with my forging. But, I hope this information helps you with your anvil base design.

I have my two big anvils on a block just like Brion's. They are held in place by 4 small guage railroad spikes. I pulled them down tight with the spikes and it dampened the ring considerably.

Dale

Thanks everyone for the info. And Steve, there can never be enough info. Thanks again. I'll look around for supplies and give it a try.

T.

I am very happy with the last anvil stand I built. The stand is welded up from angle iron and is a "box within a box" construction allowing for the height of the anvil to be adjusted. The anvil rests upon a 1/4" layer of rubber glued to a piece of 1" plywood which, in turn, rests upon the top of the inner "box." The anvil is clamped down tightly by two bolts. This construction helps reduce anvil "ring" and gives a very rigid and sturdy base for the anvil. Also, having a round bottom on the stand makes moving the anvil around much easier.

~Bruce~

Cool stand! I like it when folks rig up vises that can mount to their anvils.

My stand is from a section of a large oak log mainly because it was laying next to the forging shop and was readily available. I did however attach a pair of 2x4's to the bottom, partially for added stability and partially because I cut the log a little too short. [ <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> I guess that I forgot the old adage of: measure twice & cut once.]

I have always liked an anvil with a wooden base because not only is it a stable base but it works well for absorbing any "ring" from the anvil. It also allows you to easily add some leather loops or spikes to the side for holding your hammers, borax shaker, etc. [When you're trying to work before you loose the heat in the piece, it's always nice to have whatever tools that you need within an easy arms reach.]

All have given you some very good ideas. Good luck & have fun forging.

Gary