For years I have used a vertical type forge lined with kaowool & satanite. Something that I have never been fully satisfied with was keeping the satanite bonded to the insulating wool making it very vulnerable.
My typical process is to apply the satanite (after mixing to a thick paste consistency) to the insulating wool with a throw away type paint brush. This I apply to approx. 1/16"-1/8" and leave for 2/3 days to dry before firing the forge. I have found that within a few months the satanite will start to flake off.
Has anyone found a more durable way of insulating their vertical forge?
I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks,
Gary
I do a satanite coat of around 1/8-3/16 thick then I go over the heavy wear areas of the forge (sides openings and floor) with Versaflow (it is like satanite with aggregate) this seems to hold up pretty well. I generally apply it with gloves on by hand.
I have notice that with my forges both blow and natural that I need to cut in the choke or shut off the air after shutting down the forge or the cool air tends to crack the satanite along the roof of the forge shortening the life significantly.
MP
Thanks, Matthew. That's a nice tip with the Versaflow.
I'm wondering if adding some lime to the Satanite might get it to adhere better.
Gary
Gary,
I chose refractory cement over the kaowool. It's much heavier, but has longevity.
Bob
Like Bob, I use Castable refractory. It is heavy but it is durable.
Brian
try working it into the wool a bit more, possibly wetting it slightly generally for me it fails from cracking due to being struck not just flaking off.
Thanks, guys. I know what my winter project is going to be this year <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> . I appreciate all of your input.
Gary
Gary, if you can't find any castable refractory locally, there is a company in Memphis that sells it. Lynn Whitsett, Corp. They have a web page and sell Mizzou 3000. I paid a dollar a pound 2 years ago. I also believe there is a place in Mexico, Mo that sells it.
Bob
Gary,
It might be time for you to move up to a cast forge. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> You've seen mine and how well it works.
I use Mizzou Plus castable refractory. I buy it from a local Harbison Walker refractory dealer. I've not used other castable refractory materials, so don't know their properties and capabilities. But with Mizzou, I don't have to worry about flux damaging the refractory. It doesn't have any affect on Mizzou.
Mizzou is also tough. I don't have to be concerned about damaging the refractory by bumping it with a piece of steel. I can put big billets in my forge and bang them around on the Mizzou all day.
There is a thread on this forum, where there was a lot of discussion on building forges. I can't find it right now. Below is a link to a page on my web site, where I have some information on my forge design.
