For about that last month or so, I've been testing a new system for disc grinders. It consists of a "hub" that attaches to a 5/8" motor shaft, and it has interchangeable "face plates".
This is about the best tool that I've seen come down the pike in a long time! It allows you to change "discs" on your Disc Grinder in a matter of seconds, saves a ton of time, as well as keeps you from having to waste sandpaper every time you want/need to change grits.
There's far too much information about it to include in a forum thread, so I built a quick web page. You can see it here:
Disc Grinder with Interchangeable Face Plates
I don't give recommendations for tools often, or lightly. This thing has saved me a ton of time and kept me from wasting lots of sandpaper! I'm not getting anything out of this, just wanted to share a great time and money saving tool with everyone.
The gentleman who invented/produces this system (Rod Nielsen) has worked really hard to ensure that everything about it is right, and I think he's done a great job. For what you get it's reasonably priced too!
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
That is too cool. I know what I am asking Jessica for for Christmas!
Jon Walker
what is the reason for the 1 degree beveled disc ? Scott
|quoted:
what is the reason for the 1 degree beveled disc ? Scott
Hi Scott!
If you use a disc grinder for grinding the primary blade bevels, and the blade is longer than 1/2 the disc diameter...one side of the disc is moving downward, and the other side is moving upward. It's nearly impossible to hang onto a blade that crosses the center point on a flat disc because one side is pushing down on the blade, and the other side is pushing up...it's like trying to hold onto a bucking horse! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmiths.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> The 1 degree bevel keeps the blade from contacting the "other side" of the disc when grinding, eliminated the "bucking". I use both flat and beveled discs...the flat disc for working on guards, handle materials and such, and the beveled disc(s) for blade grinding.
After purchasing my disc grinder, and learning how to use it, it has helped me cut finishing time by 2/3..literally. It's one of those tools that you never know what your missing, until you get to use one.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
|quoted:
Hi Scott!
If you use a disc grinder for grinding the primary blade bevels, and the blade is longer than 1/2 the disc diameter...one side of the disc is moving downward, and the other side is moving upward. It's nearly impossible to hang onto a blade that crosses the center point on a flat disc because one side is pushing down on the blade, and the other side is pushing up...it's like trying to hold onto a bucking horse! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmiths.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> The 1 degree bevel keeps the blade from contacting the "other side" of the disc when grinding, eliminated the "bucking". I use both flat and beveled discs...the flat disc for working on guards, handle materials and such, and the beveled disc(s) for blade grinding.
After purchasing my disc grinder, and learning how to use it, it has helped me cut finishing time by 2/3..literally. It's one of those tools that you never know what your missing, until you get to use one.
Ed that makes sense, I have had that problem. I think I will give this magnetic disc setup a try. Thanks! Scott
Hello Ed,I really like the disc sander system but I have some questions. I am new at all this and have a limited budget. I have a home made 2"x72" belt grinder that dosen't have a flat platen. Will the disc sander do the work of a flat platen ? What sandpaper do you use on the disc sander? Thanks
Hi Charles!
The disc won't preform all the same functions as a flat platen....for example, if you're looking for a long flat surface, such as you would use to dress up distal tapers, a flat platen for your 2 x 72" would work best. That being said, for smaller areas/cross sections, nothing will give you truer flats than a disc.
I have found that I like the disc mainly for finer grits. I tend to do my "heavy" grinding on the 2 x 72 machine, and once I get to 400 grit, most of the time I will go to the disc. Where the disc really shines in my opinion is that I can go 400, 600, and beyond, and nearly eliminate hand finishing.
The biggest issue that most people face with a disc is getting used to it....even if you grind free hand on a 2 x 72" machine, using the disc requires a little getting used to, simply because of the way the abrasive moves on the disc versus a belt....just another "skill" to learn. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
As for paper for the disc, I have all of my discs faced with "fel-pro" 1/16" thick gasket material (kind of a rubberized cork), which is available from most NAPA auto parts stores. The cork is applied with 3m 77 adhesive, and I use Duro "spray glue" from Walmart to hold the paper to the cork facing. DO NOT use 3m 77 to glue the paper to the cork! If you do, you'll never get it back off! That Duro glue that I mentioned is the "el-cheapo" stuff....it has just enough hold to keep the paper in place, but not so much that you can't peel the paper back off.
I use full 9x11 sheets, and prefer either Norton Black Ice, or Rhynowet brands. Using the Duro spray glue, I glue on a full sheet of paper, then use a razor knife to trim it.....the leftovers can be kept and used for hand sanding jobs.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
