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Hydraulic Forge Press Question

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I'm currently researching, sourcing and looking for parts for my Hydraulic Press build. I have a couple of pieces of 3"x5"x1/2" angle for the vertical uprights on a "H" frame. In trying to figure out if they would be long enough, I have been designing the other press parts. Do I figure in a slight bit of wiggle room for where the steel for the upper and lower connects to the clevis or try to get the steel all the way down into the crotch of the clevis (tight fit and little to no play). Hope this makes sense and thanks for your time.

 
Posted : 11/04/2016 4:29 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 751
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

I don't fully understand what you're asking, but 1/2" angle seems terribly light for the frame of any forging press. I think far too often folks underestimate just how torturous the combination of heat and cycles are on a forging press. You didn't mention the size of hydraulic cylinder you intend to use, nor the approx tonnage you're looking at achieve....both of those factors are very relevant for any suggestions.

Personally, I would not build a forging press with anything less then a 6" diameter cylinder. Although there are folks out there who've done it, it's an accident waiting to happen. Another point...unless you have ALL the hoses custom made, the standard hydraulic hoses/fittings that are commercially available, are only rated to 3,000psi..... anything less than a 6" diameter cylinder will easily exceed that. Another personal opinion....whatever you think is the "right" thickness/size of material for a press frame.....DOUBLE IT.....I simply believe that there is no way you can overbuild a forging press.

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 11/04/2016 8:46 pm
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Thanks for the reply Ed. The H frame design was from James Batson's book using 1/4" angle so in essence I am doubling up. The uprights alone will weigh approx. 200 lbs. alone. should have made that known in the original post that i was designing it based on that design. My plan is to flip it upside down and have the cylinder on top.

The original question: the 1" steel vertical plate that I will be using to mount the clevis of the cylinder, should there be any space (play) or seat the plate as deep as I can (into the crotch of the clevis. What i don't know is if the cylinder should be solidly locked in without any fore/aft/side to side movement. The plan is to use a 5" bore/10" stroke 25t cylinder.

Don't know if this still makes any sense or if in the big picture really makes an ounce of difference.

 
Posted : 11/04/2016 9:45 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 751
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

I think I now understand. Personally, I would find a way to "lock" the upper end of the press in place. One press I built, I didn't "lock" the upper clevis in place, and was constantly breaking the mounting pins/bolts. What I did on the next build was to cut "frame" pieces out of 1" thick plate, and overlaid one of each side of the upper mounting hole, welding them in place so they formed a "cradle" for the upper eye of the cylinder. After that I no longer broke that upper mounting pin/bolt.

I would prefer to see you build the uprights out of something like a heavy weight "I" beam. I ended up having to replace a 1/2" (thickness) "I" beam on a previous press with an "I" beam that had 3/4" flanges and 1" web, trying to eliminate flex. Even after doing that, I had to install gusset plates of 3/4" plate to reduce the flexing to a usable level. 200lbs is nothing when it comes to parts for a forging press frame..... just the frame on my current press weighs in at a tad over 1,800lbs, which includes approx. 50lbs of 5/16" welding rod. I initially tried welding the frame with a MIG welder, and even though I have a big, Lincoln SP-200 MIG machine, it didn't penetrate enough, and welds broke, forcing me to borrow a big "stick" welder to reweld everything with triple pass welds. The frame is still not as solid/flex free as I'd like. As I mentioned, the repetitions and heat involved with a forging press is incredibly torturous on the overall structure.

With that 5" cylinder, PLEASE calculate the line pressures, and use the appropriate capacity hoses/fittings! At the pressures you'll be pushing, a pin hole in a line will cut whatever it encounters like a light saber!

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 12/04/2016 7:50 am
Karl B. Andersen
Posts: 1067
Member
 

Maybe this will give you some ideas.

It does more than I will ever need.

Hydraulic Press

Karl B. Andersen

Journeyman Smith

 
Posted : 12/04/2016 8:05 am
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Ed,

I like the idea of the frame pieces to lock in the clevis. Exactly what I needed to know. I will search for some heavy I beam. I have some but its too light (w10-18, I think). Based on your advice, I may have been thinking this thing not stout enough. Thanks again.

Karl,

That is a very nice press you have there. I'll bet it handle your needs well. Thanks for sharing the link as I've been watching your other videos. You come up with some crazy active hamons. Do you get that mostly because of the san mai construction of your knives?

It impresses me on how willing you guys are to share your knowledge, advice and time and hope some day that I'm knowledgeable enough to pay it forward. THANK YOU.

 
Posted : 12/04/2016 2:17 pm
Karl B. Andersen
Posts: 1067
Member
 

Don't confuse the bottom edge of the stainless jacket with a hamon.

Those undulations are the result of the drawing dies on that very press.

|quoted:

Karl,

That is a very nice press you have there. I'll bet it handle your needs well. Thanks for sharing the link as I've been watching your other videos. You come up with some crazy active hamons. Do you get that mostly because of the san mai construction of your knives?

Karl B. Andersen

Journeyman Smith

 
Posted : 13/04/2016 7:56 am
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

Have you considered just buying a press? I originally thought about building a press, but when I added up all the costs they were coming close to the price of buying one. Not to mention my time and that I don't have access to a fabrication shop. Also the added safety of using a proven design was something I considered. In the end I bought Uncle Al's press, looking back there is no way I could have made a press as nice or for the same price. Even if I was in a location where I could get better prices on the materials and I had a better equiped shop, it still would have taken a big chunk of time that in the end you could be using to forge some damascus.

Just something to consider. -Justin

 
Posted : 13/04/2016 10:40 am
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Karl,

I get what you're saying about the pattern not being a hamon. Guess I was using that term generically. Beautiful knives. I'm enjoying your youtube series on the damascus hunter build.

Justin,

Thanks for the reply. For me, half the fun of making knives is making the tools to help me create and make better knives. I have 5 grinders (I know, I'm a grinder junkie) and only one, my Bader BMI, was bought. I built my gas forges, filing guides, broaching tools and attachments for the grinders as well as other non knife related machines and tools. I have been designing, fabricating, welding and machining projects for some 45 years and have a fairly complete shop. I do however know my limitations and this project is getting close to those. My shop as well as myself aren't as capable as I would like for handling big and heavy projects like this, so buying one isn't out of the question. Uncle Al's press is at the top of the list should I purchase one in lieu building one. Thanks again for the recommendation on that press.

 
Posted : 13/04/2016 1:48 pm
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