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Gas Forges Again

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Posts: 10
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I am working towards setting up my little shop to start forging again and I need to get a gas forge up and running. When I was first smithing a few years ago I used a charcoal forge, it worked quite well but really it was unsuitable for my shop situation and is a major reason I put the craft on hold until now. I am wondering if I should buy or build, and go atmospheric or blown. I am not setup with welding equipment, so any build would either require me to farm out the welding, thereby adding cost, or go with a build that doesn't require welding. I have been eyeballing various cast forge bodies...they look quite doable without welding equipment, but I am wondering about the durability of these types of units. Also, though I have no IMMEDIATE plans to do damascus, I'll certainly want to try my hand at learning in the near future and from all I have read it seems that a blown forge is the most reliable way to acheive a trouble free welding heat. My question WRT to blown vs. atmospheric is the efficiency when throttled back to a lower general forging heat. Can blown forges be constructed/set up to be fuel efficient when not being used for welding heats?

I also need to keep the footprint small and portable. My shop area is small and space is at a premium. Any input you can offer will be much appreciated.

 
Posted : 26/01/2014 11:41 am
Posts: 10
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Lin Rhea posted this image a while back. It looks like it would fit the bill to a "T". Are these forges still available, and how would I contact the maker?

small blown forge

 
Posted : 26/01/2014 11:49 am
Steve Culver
Posts: 827
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith/ABS Instructor
 

Rick,

I've built a number of cast forges with Mizzou Plus castable refractory. Several of them, I only wrapped the forge body with ceramic wool, held on with baling wire. The castable refractory WILL crack. However, if you don't move the forge around a lot, they will stay together. If you plan to move the forge, you would be best to encase it in a steel support.

 
Posted : 27/01/2014 11:13 am
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Thanks Steve. Do you line the interior of your cast forges as well?

 
Posted : 27/01/2014 8:31 pm
Steve Culver
Posts: 827
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith/ABS Instructor
 

Rick,

The interior of my forges are not lined. The interior is just the Mizzou Plus refractory body.

There is a good thread on propane forges here. This was the topic of the month for August 2013. I posted a good bit of information on how I build my forges in this thread.

Propane Forge Design Thread

 
Posted : 28/01/2014 2:22 pm
Rob Watson
Posts: 138
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not to hi-jack your thread Rick but I thought I'd add a question or 2 on mine as well.....I just recently picked up this gas forge from a german fella who had made it himself, very solid, well built , a little big so my question is before I refrac it should I build up another layer of wool to decrease the inside diam or just refrac and try as is (APPROX 8-9''INSIDE WOOL DIAM) ......just a single burner but really heats up fast with the door on....there is also a small opening out the back for longer than 18'' pieces......I've picked up a digital thermometer and pyrometer but havent tested for heat yet.......the one picture was just at fireup as a test run so you can see where the flame is hitting, doesnt take long to get the swirling action.......the next picture is just a few minutes later , any input is welcome , thanks

[font="Comic Sans MS"]'Never Quit On Improving'[/font]

 
Posted : 28/01/2014 3:08 pm
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