Hi All,
I was poking around on the forum this morning looking for a discussion on forge selection, and I was very surprised that there doesn't appear to be one. Seems like a missing topic. (Also possible that I am myself just missing something very obvious...didn't have much sleep last night.)
Anyway:
I've been making knives for about four years now. I got my start at MassArt with JD Smith, and I've done about 99% of my forging there. I have also spent some time down in Old Washington on Uncle Al's forges, with Joe Szilaski on Forge Masters, and out in Oregon with Michael Bell's home-made kit. And a friend of mine runs a Chile Forge.
I am currently set up to do my hot work at MassArt, but now that I'm a JS, it really is time for me to work out my own setup. I need room to play, and trying to get a billet of damascus done with five students in the fire at the same time (not to mention fumbling around the shop) is not going to cut it anymore.
So, as I head toward setting up my own shop, I'm researching all of the different tool options. Most of the equipment is fairly easy to select, whether because of limited options or the preeminence of a certain brand. But forges seem to be different. Each of the forges I've used so far has had, in my opinion, one of several fairly significant flaws or drawbacks, relative to my needs:
1) Forgemasters: efficient, but with a small heating chamber and very small (or wide open) access into the fire, project size is limited. Also, there doesn't appear to be any easy way to repair the bottom of the forge from flux damage.
2) Uncle Al's: don't seem terribly efficient--the heating chamber is a big drum, and about 85% of that interior volume will never have anything in it. It may be that this space is needed for ideal combustion/atmosphere, but based on some of the others that I've seen, this seems unlikely.
3) Chile Forge: my buddy runs the single burner model, and it seems grossly underpowered to me. It takes forever to heat up and won't reach welding heat, and with large, non-closeable mouths on either end, it sucks in a huge volume of oxidizing atmosphere. Also, the ceramic tiles that make up its interior walls are not secured to the forge itself, so they are continually falling down. I get that you want to be able to replace them, but at least build in some kind of notch that they fit into or something...
4) MassArt/Michael Bell's: both of these forges have worked really well for me, but both are custom made, and that's something I'm uncomfortable with for my own shop. I have zero background in fabrication, casting, and plumbing, and I am exceedingly hesitant to wing it on a) the most important piece of equipment in my shop, <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' /> volatile combustibles, and c) something I'll need to insure.
So...all that being said, what are your recommendations? Is there a forge out there that just does it all? Love to hear (read) any and all thoughts.
Thanks
Zack Jonas
Zack Jonas
Journeyman Smith
Hi Zack!
First off, I'm gona scold you a bit:
I have zero background in fabrication
BALONEY!! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> You've been making knives for 4 years, my guess is that your far more advanced as a fabricator, then what you give yourself credit for. Know that I'm messing with you, but with a hint of seriousness. If you have the skills to produce a knife, building a forge isn't a big deal. I can understand your apprehensions, but with a little self education, I doubt you'd have any problems.
The reason I say all of that is because I simply am yet to see ANY gas forge on the market that I would be willing to pay for.....because in my opinion, each has serious drawbacks. Unless you build our own, or have someone else with forge building experience build a forge to YOUR specs, you're always going to be disappointed.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
Ok Ed, I'll bite. But since I've only used the forges that I've used, how do I end up with a design that checks all of my boxes? I know some have worked better for me than others, but I don't really have anything more than a general sense of how to achieve an even heat, efficient combustion, reducing atmosphere, etc. I could go with the old trial and error approach, and while I'm sure I would eventually land on something workable, I can see spending a lot of valuable time casting firebox after firebox...
I'm not trying to be pessimistic about it--juat trying to end up with something that makes sense.
<img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
Zack
Zack Jonas
Journeyman Smith
Zack,
I have my doubts that there is a forge that does it all. In fact the most important variable in the whole forging equation is you, the one running the forge. You have to learn to use the forge to suit your needs. I believe some forges would be more efficient in fuel, but trade off size or BTU. It depends on what is the greater need at the time. I use two forges depending on whether I need average heat such as in general forging or sure nuff welding heat. I dont like general forging in my welding forge due to the fact it eats fuel, but when I need to weld, it will get the job done in a big way. My Little Johnny forge is way, way more efficient for general forging plus small blades and parts cant fall into the "pit" if you know what I mean. The need for variety can be met in more than my way, but so far, this works best for me.
Dont overlook coal. One coal forge, in the right hands, can do a lot more than one might think.
Thanks Lin. As always, you speak sense. I hadn't actually thought about using two forges. Seems wise. And I just read your post from a couple years back abouth that little forge you'd just picked up. Is that guy still taking orders?
I've actually never forged on coal. I've heard it's great, and ive certainly seen it perform. In my mind the biggest downside of it is having to cart in and store the stuff (or make it, obviously), plus all the soot it generates...plus needing somewhat more rigorous chimney/venting.
I guess I'm pretty partial to gas...
Thanks, zack
Zack Jonas
Journeyman Smith
Zack
This is the link to a discussion on small forges started by Master Smith Lin Rhea last year on our ABS Forum, click: http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/index.php?/topic/126-small-forge-design/page__p__3288__hl__Little%20Johnny__fromsearch__1&#entry3288
This is a YouTube video of Lin using the forge:
[media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vt77Mut5l84&sns=em [/media]
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan
Yes Zack he's still making them. In fact he's made several improvements over the one in the video. The blower assembly now entirely seperates from the forge and the stand hinges to fold to half it's height making shipping cost much less. He custom fabricates the front and back door if there is one. I prefer a slot so I can stick a blade tip out and insure it wont get hot before I want. I am very happy with it.
Zack-
This is probably a bit in left field, but if you have any plans of being back on the west coast... I'd be glad to have you here at the shop and we could build a couple forges for you.
I'm like many, in that I feel there isn't really one, single PERFECT forge. Having an elliptical/oval shaped vertical forge for welding, and a small vertical or horizontal for general blade/fitting work is about as close to a win/win as you can get.
Of course then you want one for a salt bath, and one for heat-treat to compliment the salt bath and the electric kiln, and..... <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//blink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//tongue.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':P' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
That is a serious offer by the way. You buy the ceramic insulation and the blower and I'd walk you through all the rest. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
-Nick-
Thanks for the info Lin.
Nick, that is a REALLY generous offer. I may well take you up on it some time. Thanks very much!
Zack Jonas
Journeyman Smith
Zack, I have seen Lin's forge and it is pretty cool. If I buy another one that would probably be my choice. Right now I have an NC Tool company whisper daddy low boy. It is a three burner model with ports in the front and back, it also has a side door which can be open or closed. I like it and it does reach welding heat just fine. The company also has replaceable floor liners for the forge to take care of flux issues. It is not perfect, but it works for me. I can do forging heat on about 2 pounds gas pressure. It is a venturi forge, but I would like to have a blown forge also as they seem better for damascus. The NC Tool forges work pretty well although they are not the cheapest.
Nick that is a great offer, if I get out that way I will take you up on it. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
I was impressed enough to buy one of the "Little Johnny" forges while at the AKA Show this year. I had been wanting a small horizontal forge for some time and believe that this one will fill the bill nicely. I had originally planned on plumbing the gas line into my shop supply but I think that I will leave it on a 20 lb. tank for portability. The instruction sheet supplied with the forge says it will run approx. 20 hrs on a 20 lb. tank which is much more economical than my big forge.
Gary
Chile Forge: my buddy runs the single burner model, and it seems grossly underpowered to me. It takes forever to heat up and won't reach welding heat,
and with large, non-closeable mouths on either end, it sucks in a huge volume of oxidizing atmosphere. Also, the ceramic tiles that make up its interior walls
are not secured to the forge itself, so they are continually falling down. I get that you want to be able to replace them, but at least build in some kind of notch
that they fit into or something...
Please view the video link to our single burner Tabasco Forge heating a 2 inch piece of steel to a yellow heat.
http://www.chileforge.com/2inchSteel.html
All of our models reach forge welding temperatures, when set at the proper pressure. Air is drawn into the forge through the burner and out through
the forge openings as exhaust gas. The forge openings can be closed down with fire brick if needed. The ceramic on the sides of the forge can fall if
the are not cemented in with the supplied ITC-100.
In the next few weeks we will be adding videos of our forge models fired up with the Diablo Burner to our website.
We always welcome all feedback that will help to make our forges perform better.
David
My shop is at 7,400 feet and I had trouble reaching welding temperature for Damascus steel with my old gas forge so after a lot of research I contacted Stacy and David at Chile Forge and purchased the Habanero - two burner forge with the Diablo burners. This forge delivers an incredible amount of heat and quickly. I am very satified with both the forge and the service.
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
Send an email to Dan
FYI, in the course of my research, I've concluded that my friend must simply have his Chile forge set up incorrectly. They really seem like the best generalist product out there, and I'm strongly considering buying one as my primary forge. Hope I didn't turn anyone away with my original post.
Thanks,
Zack
Zack Jonas
Journeyman Smith
I use coal myself. I like it, in fact it's the only thing I have ever used. I am thinking of building a propane forge some time, to try it out. I know it's cleaner than coal, but I like coal because its a solid heat that you can move around where you want it. I'm sure propane has it's perks too.