Someone in another thread asked how we would make the domed heads similar to the ones on the famous Bowie Number One. Thanks Dale. All we can say is they are similar, since we cant take that knife apart to be sure, but these work and I thought it should be here on the forum. I will say though that this is one way, not the only way. But this way can be used and adapted to your own situation. I really like this method and cant believe this subject has not been posted already. It's so easy..... well, you'll see.
This little jig is the prototype so, there might be some very slight changes to streamline the process or improve it, but it works pretty well. It works best on soft materials such as copper, nickle/silver, fine Silver, or Gold. The tools are not hardened, but could be for working harder materials. I got my original idea from Dr Jim Batson at a hammer In a couple of years ago. He took the time to draw his system, which was very similar to what I made.
The idea is to punch out small discs, dome them, and put a hole in them if a hole is needed. Some makers solder the pin in the cup of the dome....... so that particular one would not need a hole. It's mate on the opposite side of the handle, however, would.
Here is the main tool block and the punches.
Thanks Lin,
I think I see what you are doing. My feeble mind is a little slow but maybe I can figure it out eventually.
Dale
Dale Huckabee
Journeyman Smith
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The sheet silver, or what ever material, is slid into the slot and the disc punched out the bottom.
The next thing is to take the disc and put it into the next hole that is cupped shape. It was drilled with a ball mill. It was slightly scratchy in the block so to smooth it some, I chucked the round punch in the drill press and put some lapping compound in the hole and spun the punch in it. That evened the punch and "mold" into the same shape. I tell you this because it is something you will likely encounter if you make one.
The dome is shaped with the punch that is shown in the middle of the first picture above. Then the dome is sit down into a second,.... no.... third hole, which has that shape but also has a hole in it exactly in the middle. Then the hole is punch with a the punch shown in this picture.
The punched dome is still on the punch.
This just shows the pin stock slipped through the dome. At this point the dome can be cleaned up, the bottom flattened, The hole countersunk, and the surface polished, at least down around where it sits on the handle material. All of these operations presents its own challenge because of the small size of the piece.
Dont suppose you have a good closeup photo of the final product?
I dont have close ups. Sorry.
Thank you Lin for posting this tutorial. It is very helpful.
Dan Cassidy
Journeyman Smith
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So if I understand this correctly it is an expanding rivet pin? Also looks like the tooling you are using is the same as a dapping block setup.
Ed, I believe it is similar to a dapping block. The only expansion I want in this pin is on the outside of the dome to fill the hole and countersink. When light hammer pecks are used the pin can be shaped to fill in the dome.
This construction is quite strong due to not only the physical strength of the dome, but the fact that the soft Silver work hardens when you dome it in the block. This enables it to withstand the light hammering to shape the pin's head.
Another "plus" of this type of construction is that you can undersize the pin to allow for contraction and expansion of handle scales. There is also evidence that some of the early knives had a tube in the handle for the pin to pass through, the tube projecting out of the handle scales and up into the underside of the dome to provide some added strength/support while, at the same time, being covered by the dome.
Thanks Lin. Now I understand. A couple of more questions though. What size are the holes for punching the disk and the cupped hole? Also what thickness stock do you usually use?
Thanks again,
Dale
Dale Huckabee
Journeyman Smith
dalehuckabeeknives.weebly.com