I'll throw my $.02 in here for what its worth.....which ain't much <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//blink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' />

First off WOW, you dont use one AND your already a Journeyman...I thought everyone used one. You obiously don't need one, although it would probably save you a ton of time.

I have a 12" disc sander, and it works great for getting things really flat. That being said.

Here is my philosophy on this. Grinding on the 2" belt is great for setting the bevels across the blade , then go to a disc where you can cover more of the blade in one pass. Wider is better they say, and it makes sence to have more of the blade on the sander at once. Less chance for a low or high spot, and really flat flats...In theory it should make hand sanding and finishing easier.

I'll let you know in a couple weeks <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

I just ( like Friday ) ordered one of Rod's disc systems. The 12" discs are really expensive, and a pain to change out without damaging them. I think the new system will be more time friendly, and cheaper. The 9X11 sheets are MUCH cheaper that the 12" discs.

Hope I helped a bit

Dwane

Disk Sander

Here's some examples of the two types of disc sanding/grinding tools that I am familiar with.

As Dwane stated, the disc sander is a large flat wheel that can be used to get a very flat surface. In addition they are very handy at putting angled bevels on your work. A good example would be the 45 degree bevels on the junction between bolsters and handle material.

A disc grinder is a very different animal... I have not made use of a disc grinder in my shop, but from what I've gathered, folks are using them to rough in the blade bevels before putting the blade to a belt grinder. They are good at knocking off scale and high spots and save $ on grinding belts. They can be a very agressive grinder that is typically used a lot in metal fabrication/welding shops. They typically would be used to prep steel for welding or rough grinding applications. There are a few less aggressive wheels that can be used with them however.

Rick

|quoted:

I'll throw my $.02 in here for what its worth.....which ain't much <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//blink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':blink:' />

First off WOW, you dont use one AND your already a Journeyman...I thought everyone used one. You obiously don't need one, although it would probably save you a ton of time.

I have a 12" disc sander, and it works great for getting things really flat. That being said.

Here is my philosophy on this. Grinding on the 2" belt is great for setting the bevels across the blade , then go to a disc where you can cover more of the blade in one pass. Wider is better they say, and it makes sence to have more of the blade on the sander at once. Less chance for a low or high spot, and really flat flats...In theory it should make hand sanding and finishing easier.

I'll let you know in a couple weeks <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

I just ( like Friday ) ordered one of Rod's disc systems. The 12" discs are really expensive, and a pain to change out without damaging them. I think the new system will be more time friendly, and cheaper. The 9X11 sheets are MUCH cheaper that the 12" discs.

Hope I helped a bit

Dwane

Dwane

You will love Rod's disc system. I have 2 of them and they are great time/paper saver. I literally shaved many hours of hand sanding each blade I make. I will use the disc grinder to sand each blade to 1 grit higher than what I want to finish the blade at. I will then spent 5 minutes handsanding each side with 1 grit lower. Takes a bit to get onto it but once you know how it works, it is worth its weight in gold. I cut my paper a bit over sized and it cleans up the plunge cuts very well.

Jim

Ditto to what Jim said about Rod's disc system......I also have one on each of my disc sanders.

As far as a motor/controller combo for a disc sander, you won't find one any better than the ones that Rob Frink from Beaumont metal works offers.

Thanks. I did in fact mean a disc sander--I use a disc grinder to knock off the scale when folding damascus.

I think my main confusion on the disc sander is how the bevel of the blade would be addressed to the abrasive surface without interfering with the ricasso area. JD Smith tells me you use the edge of the disc the same as you would use the edge of the belt on a belt grinder...

So I guess that answers my question.

Thanks all.

zack

Here is a little update on Rod Nielson's Disc grinder System....

Its AWESOME. I ground 9 blades today , some 4" and some 3" blades. Started with a 36G on the belt sander then went to an 80 grit on the Disc sander....SUPER flat flats. I cant wait till tomorrow to take them to 220 then 600 on the Disc and see what happens.

I would have to say thats the best $500 I have ever spent on tools.

Dwane

Here is a link to Rod's disc system.

http://www.caffreyknives.net/RodsDisc.html

If you scroll down the page you will see a disc grinder set up on a variable speed drive with forward, stop and reverse. I learned about the beauty of the disc sander during a lesson with MS Tommy Gann last year. For blades, most people use the angled disc face. This allows you to work a long blade. If you grind long blades across a flat face then you have upward forces on part of the blade and downward forces on the other half of the blade. The angled face plates prevent this. Tommy runs his grinder very slowly, switching from forward/stop/reverse quite often. Once he mounts a new piece of sandpaper he takes an old file and dulls the edge of the paper around the perimeter of the disc. He says this helps prevent causing problems in your plunge lines when you move from the 2" belt to the disk.

I just purchased a motor that can be base mounted to a bench or face mounted. This will allow me to possibly add the new disc grinder work rest offered by beaumont metal works.

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/

I use a disc grinder to rough in my blades after forging before heat treat. It is an aggressive tool, so it does require some finesse. I do like my disc or angle grinder allot. Always use safety glasses, welding gloves, hearing protection, and a face shield with it if you decide to use one yourself. Also a heavy work coat wouldn't hurt. Like one a welder uses. I'm not sure you would have to wear a respirator while using one, because I'm not sure if it make fine enough particles to breath in. I'm sure it couldn't hurt though. It's a loud high pitched tool, it throws off allot of sparks that burn and stick in your exposed skin or eyes, and it could be very bad for your health if operated without safety equipment and the disc on it shatters. With all that said. It's cheap, you can get a small one for $20 to $40 and the discs are cheap too. Once you learn the tool you can come to realize the incredible control it allows. It can remove material very fast so be careful. While grinding you can see what you are doing, but you have to learn what your'e looking for as in what metal is being removed. I use a 4" angle grinder. I have a little craftsman combo 4" belt sander/6" disc sander. Never thought to use the disc sander. I'll have to try that out.