Lon,

Let's see if this picture works. These are just some simple clamps I made based on others I have seen. Lin

yes it helps a bunch thanks!

Cool little device, Lin. the one thing that I am still wondering even after more than 4 years of trying is how you guys can shape a guard and handle AFTER it had been glued up. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmiths.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//rolleyes.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':rolleyes:' />

Joe,

I don't know what belts you are using for shaping guards/handles but one thing that helps me is using an extra flexable belt like the Klingspor 312 (yellow J-flex). Also, it seems to be easier for me on a vertical grinder like my old grizzly.

Gary

I use a rotary platten to help give a little support to the J-flex belts and apply very little pressure near the final finish. This gets the wood to guard transition good and even. Lin

J-Flex here also. However I do not have a rotary platen, that is on the to get list. Instead I use the Mike Williams method. Thin leather on the regular platen. A little give and some support to the belt. Allows you to get in to curves smoothly. I also use the guard press very similar to Lin's. My leather is attached with a clip over the top of the platen, ask Mike about it at Blade.

Brion

I saw Bruce Bump's guard clamping method on his forum at Knife Dogs. It's a valve spring stradling vise jaws and against back of guard with the tang running through. Pull down on blade to compress spring, tighten vise on tang. Not a press in the sense the screw threads on Lin's have quite a lot more force.

Mike

no fancy tools or jigs needed. Make an oak block approx 1"x2" and about 1" thick. cut a slot in the block big enough for most tangs to pass through.The block is positioned on the tang just beneath your guard up against the shoulders of the ricasso. you are ready to seat the guard now. Clamp the tang in the vise and leave just a little slack between the bottom of the block and the back of the guard. Using four small slot-tipped screw drivers insert them between the jaws of the vise and the bottom of the block. Begin tapping the screw drivers in a little at a time. This will press your guard and nice and tight against the ricasso shoulders. The front of your guard is facing up so you can easily clean up any J&B weld that squeezed out with WD-40. Leave over night to dry.

Bill Kirkes

I was taught in the Jason Knight Method...he said "I ever show you how to use math to fit a guard?" He produced a thick college algebra book and proceeded to hammer his guard on, tip down into the book to protect it. Basically you glue up a slotted driving tool out of three pieces of micarta two inches wide. Two as long as your tang will ever be and 1 1/2" more and then one 1 1/2" long to put between them on one end. Your tool should look like a 'U' from the side. The long pieces slide down either side of the tang with the ends resting against the back of the guard. Clamp them snug against it with a squeezy thingy. Kneel down so you're at eye level with your guard fit and tap into place with a hammer by striking the top end of your micarta tool and letting your knife tip drive into the book on your bench. Acetone away the excess JB weld.

An Adam DesRosiers trick to shaping handles is to sit on a paint can so you can freehand with the slack belt underneath the grinder where the belt is running away from you. Be careful with this right at the metal/wood juncture as it likes to remove wood faster.

i don't get the jbweld on the guard. is that to hide gaps or for water? i press the guard on and when i glue up the handle some of the glue may come out the front of the guard at that time .ami missing something?

tommy

Tommy,

My experience is it won't hide gaps... person sees a line of JB Weld. I use it to seal and avoid flux/solder problems and trying to fix them on finished faces.

Mike

Yes the JB Weld is for sealing so moisture will not get in. I have seen some guards where people tried to fill a gap with it and it is VERY noticeable. Tommy I sometimes will use just superglue for the same thing.

Brion

G'day everyone

I am the same as Tommy, I have always pressed the guard on and let the hydraulic pressure of the epoxy seal them from the back forward to the blade. To my mind it always seemed like the best way to complete the seal. I am sure either way works well, it is just what fits in your process. For forcing the guard on I use a 2 inch square block with a hole up the guts. If the guard and tang angle interfere with the block going all the way up I use a U shaped spacer. I hold the blade point down in the vice with leather than go at it with a whackomiter. I broke my block after 10 years of use just before Blade, I think I will go ahead and make a fancy pants one like Haley described.

I am also a big fan of the J-flex belts for handle finishing as well. I have made a new arm for my Burr King. It is 6 inches taller then the original. I was sick of pulling the platen out to slack belt. (and the work rest was always poxy)Now I can work on the 5" wheel the 6" platen or I have 5" above the platen to slack belt without changing anything. I find it much more efficient to finish handles now.

one thing that helps on the clean up is after i press the guard on i will coat the face of the guard with vaseline and any glue the comes out is easy to remove Qtip it is sealed and ready for shaping.