David

The maul head should work and be hard enough after all, we dont wear out our hammers every time we use them. The one thing to consider here though is the benefit to effort ratio that you mentioned. If you are going to put in the time, effort, and $100, you may want to save a little more and just get an anvil.

I have been down this road with anvils and grinders. My time, my efforts, and my money would have all been better spent going the right way first.

I know this stuff can be expensive, but it all adds up and in the end, wise investments in tools would have been a better option for me anyway.

Just my thoughts

Brian

I wish it was that easy! I have looked everywhere for a decent anvil that does not cost as much as good steak per pound or has not had the crap beat out of it... I have been saving for years for my shop and a good anvil is about all I lack! KMG with flat platen and a 14" wheel, chili forge Habenero gas forge, etc. I just thought this might be a good way to get started as I have been lookingfor quite some time and have struck out.

David try this Stake Anvil, depends on which part of the world you are getting your steaks from. This might get you going. Other options would include the good old railroad section anvil (Wear your ear goggles! or you will be as deaf as me.)

As an aside I have been thinking about getting a couple of these for teaching at primitive events.

We made a "sea Robin" style anvil out of a drop of 4" round 1050 we got from a local steel supplier. Weight is right around 125lb and the cost was about $1.50LB, we just fabricated a stand, ground two parallel flats and flame hardened the face. if makes a very affecting bladesmithing anvil for a very low investment.

The fact is you could do the same thing out of mild steel (running new about $0.75 LB) and have just about as affective a tool. Mass is what makes an anvil affective the hardness helps with rebound and from keeping the face from dinging up, but a 200lb block of mild with most of the mass under the blow will be far more affective than a 100lb traditional anvil with a nice hard face.

MP

If all you are going to forge is blades, a block of steel will do. But if you have ideas of incorporating blacksmith techniques into your work you should think of getting a nice anvil. The horn and hardy options are a worthy consideration.

I've got an old Peter Wright which has a lot of dings and dents on the face. I quickly realized how much time and effort a clean, smooth anvil face can save.

So, I broke down and invested in a #12 Peddinghaus from Blacksmiths Depot since they were on sale. I couldn't pass up the price on something which is likely to only get more and more expensive as the months go by.

Bo

You made a good decision. I purchased the same anvil from Steve Kane at Bladesmith's Depot many years ago and it has served me well.

Now, If you need an anvil stand this is the link to some plans for making one that are on the ABS Website that the Kane's gave to me, Click: Anvil Stand Plans