Hello, been a while since i posted anything <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
lately i had some hectic 11h shifts so no time to mess in the workshop, but had plenty of time to go thru this and other section of the forum...
kinda inspired by the works of some of you guys i decided to take on this project.
The wrought iron came from an old animal carriage, almost 1" thick ring. Had to forge it down a bit to get it to what need,
all the material was originally length wise and kinda had some issues with delams but nothing that wouldn't weld back up after some heat.
The steel for the core is 80crv2.
The guard is just plain mild steel that i "blued" with oil (more like blackened...)
ferrule? or spacer in brass, really putting my hope on it to oxidize to have a less shiny aspect ahhaha
handle made out of some curly maple i dye and stabilize in my workshop.
etched in ferric and coffe.
the ferric was contaminated with copper that got then bound to portions of wrought iron that contained some nickel,
giving off some pink colouring and left it in coffee for a night gave y some funky colors and a golden shine
still need to sharpen it but after finding a crack in the core at the spine it just threw me out of phase so wills it there for a while before become functional...
no clue what i'm doing wrong with san mai blades, tried all the tricks, all HT done with a controlled kiln, even preheated the owen for the tempering
so it won't cool too much out of the quench <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wacko.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wacko:' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wacko.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wacko:' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wacko.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wacko:' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wacko.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':wacko:' />
if some have some light to shed on this issue i'll be all ears <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
some pics of the work
i hope it's of your liking, been really giving my best to refine my skills with this one <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//happy.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='^_^' />
Looks very nice, Elvis. I really like the overall design, and the various colors and textures add a lot of character.
The brass accent would only be called a ferrule if it actually covered over part of the wooden handle like a sleeve. Otherwise you would simply call it a spacer.
Regarding the crack in the core, I would first ask you what you quenched your blade in. 80CrV2 is a fairly deep-hardening steel and doesn't require a fast oil at all. In fact it's hardening curve more resembles O2 than 1080, and based on my own experience, quenching in a very fast oil like Durixol V35 can result in cracks.
|quoted:
Looks very nice, Elvis. I really like the overall design, and the various colors and textures add a lot of character.
The brass accent would only be called a ferrule if it actually covered over part of the wooden handle like a sleeve. Otherwise you would simply call it a spacer.
Regarding the crack in the core, I would first ask you what you quenched your blade in. 80CrV2 is a fairly deep-hardening steel and doesn't require a fast oil at all. In fact it's hardening curve more resembles O2 than 1080, and based on my own experience, quenching in a very fast oil like Durixol V35 can result in cracks.
Thank you for stopping by <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
ohh ok i was a bit wary of using ferrule as a term, now know when to use it.
i actually quenched in 50°c canola oil(yeah i know i'm a cheap noob) and followed Ed Brown HT guide...
out of quench and temper i'm fairly sure there was no crack, maybe my second tempering and the blue drawing of tang an spine cracked the core? <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//sad.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':(' />
|quoted:
Thank you for stopping by <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
ohh ok i was a bit wary of using ferrule as a term, now know when to use it.
i actually quenched in 50°c canola oil(yeah i know i'm a cheap noob) and followed Ed Brown HT guide...
out of quench and temper i'm fairly sure there was no crack, maybe my second tempering and the blue drawing of tang an spine cracked the core? <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//sad.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':(' />
Canola oil is actually pretty fast. Maybe not quite as fast as Parks 50 or Durixol V35, but still pretty fast. For deeper hardening steels like 90MnCrV8 and 80CrV2 I've had very good success with Durixol W25, which is readily available here in Germany, but if you can't find any W25 where you are then you could maybe try mineral oil instead.
One other variable worth considering is the differing rates of thermal expansion and contraction between the core steel and the wrought iron jacket during the heat treatment process. I've never used wrought iron in a san-mai construction and honestly don't know if this specific combination of materials would be troublesome, but any time you create a heterogeneous mix such as in san-mai, you need to consider how each individual alloy will respond to your thermal treatments. If they differ too greatly, the stresses can be enough to tear the steel apart.
It's a shame the steel cracked the way it did... it's really a beautiful knife
yeah i had other issues with san mai, but was hoping that now with a new steel, a kiln and few more years of exp i could pull it off effortlessly
but nope 😐
will soon modify my small tempering oven to a PID controlled thing so will be more accurate and will try to maybe do a smaller blade
and not draw back the spine and tang.
super annoying when this happens even more with a pretty blade xD
thx again for your words, glad you like the blade <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
hope we can meet up one day so you can show me some tricks with thin PW blades xD
