I like it the blade work looks good. I'm confused about the how you made the hamon. Could you explain it. Only thing is the antler looks a little fat for the blade. I know you can't always be choosy about your antler. I try (am not always successful) to make my blades to fit the antler. Other than that it looks great.

It could be the photo resizing that made it look that way. If that is the case it looks good.

Bob,

That is a nice piece. From what I can see in the pics, looks like good fit & finish, and I like the blade design. Is that handle pinned, or just epoxied?

Hey guys,

Thanks for looking and the comments. I took the pics with my phone, and they kinda make the handle look fat and heavy. It really feels light and comfortable in the hand.

Ed, the handle is epoxied in place with no pin. I called Tim Potier, and he advised me to file some notches on the tang to grip the epoxy. He also told me how to use a flat spade wood bit to bend the tang hole in the antler, and how to heat up the tang and bend it to follow the curve.

We are all so lucky to belong to an organization where everyone is so willing to help and pass along their knowledge!

To answer your question about the simple torch hamon Jared, MS Jim Crowell was one of our instructors during the Intro to Bladesmithing Class this past April. He demonstrated this method on a test knife he made, and I later won in the hat draw. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

I'd be happy to email you a copy of the handout he gave us that has step by step instructions on how to do it. Just PM me your email! I think the process is also in a thread somewhere in the forum, but not sure.

I find it a fun way to heat treat the blade, and I have been successful 3 out of 5 tries. Crack 2 really nice hunter blades. Jim can make it look like the knife had clay on it!

Best,

Bob

Bob, Keep in mind that your knives that I have seen are way better than anything that I have produced so far. I did find the thread about the hamon. (I guess I was asleep last month)

I didn't even know you could do that with a torch. I may try to use the one at work for some experimenting.

I'm still working on trying to get a good clean grinds LOL. I haven't had that much time to practice lately either and as everyone here knows it is not like riding a bike.

Jared,

I post pics here to get critiqued, so I can improve. I want honest opinions, so I'll know how to improve on the next knife I make. Please if you see something that you don't like, let me know.

I know what you mean about grinding! Forged all those blades in school, and then ruined them when I got home and set up the KMG. The combination of a new machine, belts and going to fast, left many an ugly 2" mark!

Best,

Bob

Bob,

Thanks for the info. Is the guard on this knife flat at the bottom, rounded, pointed, etc.?

Say, I don't suppose you could post a thread on how to use the flat spade bit and "hot tng" technique in the "Handles & Guards" section of the forum, could you? I'm sure I could figure something out, but it sounds interesting <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' />

Ed C.

ED,

The guard is flat on the bottom and sort of an oval shape above the ricasso. The , well now I' m stumped as I don't have my school notes in the house, you know what I'm talking about . It curves up some and tapers somewhat, but is not pointed. I struggle with guards, but plan on attending Handles and Guards in the spring . I rely on Joe Keeslar's book right now, and getting ideas in the gallery section.

I'll post your request over in handles and guards sometime tomorrow. Let's put it this way, I'll give it a shot!

Bob