This is the first time I've put up anything in here, mainly because my photographic skills leave a lot to be desired. As you can see by the pic I didn't take it, my mate Wayne Holloway who is a pro shooter did it for me. Specs. W2 , clay hardened, triple temper. Shinogi-zukuri, torii-zori. Nagasa 465mm, 18 3/8". Sori 7.5mm, Kasane 6.58mm. Overall length 25 1/4". Silver Habaki,brass Seppa, copper Fuchi and Kashira. Damascus Tsuba. Blue silk Ito over Ray skin. Silver Dragon Menuki. Black lacquer Saya. I must add that this is the fourth attempt at this blade.
The first one was 2000 + layers 1075 & 15N20 that I water quenched and yes folks it destroyed itself in spectacular fashion. Second attempt, got a bend and a twist in the blade after the heat treat that I could not fix. Third attempt, Everything went well until I started to regrind after the heat treat and noticed that I had missed out on getting the Hamon by about an inch into the tang! Re clayed it and quenched in Houghtons K quench. Well quenching it in the oil took the curvature right out of it didn't it, tried to recurve with localised heats but ended up in the trash. So here is the finished blade and its all good imo. And if you haven't guessed my motto is never give up. Comments Welcome and thanks for looking.
Cheers Keith
Looks fantastic! One of my goals is to be able to forge katana for my students as a present when they achieve ShoDan.
Cheyenne Walker
Apprentice Smith
Great job Keith. That is a winner. In case you could not tell, I have a thing for japanese blades. Big thumbs up.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
Awesome work Keith!!!
How can something that is supposed to be fun, be so painful? LOL!!
Thank you so much for your kind words. I just hope that my next sword does not give me as much grief! I did learn that you have to relax a bit when you do the heat treat, (I always get a bit excited at that point) and that would be fine if I could only unclench my teeth ! <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//ohmy.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':o' /> Thanks again.
Cheers Keith
Very Nice!!! If you want to try the high layer again I would recommend mixing w-2 and 1075. Or w-2 and something with low manganese.
Again though very nice looking blade and mounted very nicely as well. I would love to see a detail shot of the hamon though.
|quoted:
Very Nice!!! If you want to try the high layer again I would recommend mixing w-2 and 1075. Or w-2 and something with low manganese.
Again though very nice looking blade and mounted very nicely as well. I would love to see a detail shot of the hamon though.
Hi Justin,
Thanks mate, Yes planning on doing just that. I was thinking W2 and 15N20. What do you think? This is the best pic I could take of the hamon, sorry for the quality or lack of it.
Cheers Keith
Wow!!! That hamon is gorgeous. Really stunning.
Personally I would think the 15n20 is to highly alloyed. At least if you are trying to produce a hamon, especially water quenched. I would think you are going to crack the blade every time. I have seen hamons on blades with 15n20 in the mix but they are usually very low in activity. For hamons I would stick with the 10xx series and W- steels. This combination wont be as high contrast as a high nickel steel like 15n20 but folded out to 2,000 layers I don't know that you get a lot of contrast anyway. I'm a bit obsessed with hamons so they are my main focus but I wouldn't put a steel in the mix that won't give a good hamon on it's own.
I'm working on a high layer tanto right now, of w-2 and low manganese 1075. I haven't finished polishing yet but my first impression is the hamon is better than with w-2 alone. I have to say though you have given me a pretty high bar to aim at with the mounting, nice work. -Justin
|quoted:
Wow!!! That hamon is gorgeous. Really stunning.
Personally I would think the 15n20 is to highly alloyed. At least if you are trying to produce a hamon, especially water quenched. I would think you are going to crack the blade every time. I have seen hamons on blades with 15n20 in the mix but they are usually very low in activity. For hamons I would stick with the 10xx series and W- steels. This combination wont be as high contrast as a high nickel steel like 15n20 but folded out to 2,000 layers I don't know that you get a lot of contrast anyway. I'm a bit obsessed with hamons so they are my main focus but I wouldn't put a steel in the mix that won't give a good hamon on it's own.
I'm working on a high layer tanto right now, of w-2 and low manganese 1075. I haven't finished polishing yet but my first impression is the hamon is better than with w-2 alone. I have to say though you have given me a pretty high bar to aim at with the mounting, nice work. -Justin
Thanks for the input Justin and upon thinking on it when you are talking of such a high layer count, activity is somewhat lost. I may do as you suggest and use W2 and 1075, as for water quenching *###** I'm still a little shy and will stick to the Houghtons K quench. As they say when you're on a good thing stick to it. The Tanto sounds great can't eait to see it finished. About the high bar, mate it turned out well and it was the first time I used the paper tabs under the Tsuka ito. Makes for a lot more work, now I know the importance of them, I will try to refine the use of them. No shortcuts in anything, as we all come to realise. Got along way to go as far as the mounting goes. Thanks again.
Cheers Keith
