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Type I/ii Seax Looking Blade

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Posts: 41
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Topic starter
 

hello guys! hope you are all doing fine <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

so this is my first really big blade, had to limit it to the length of my HT oven

i tried to make a type I/II norse seax, kinda the shape is that, mine is not really that accurate historically.

nice and instructive experience to forge something so big (ohh boy to keep it straight and even was a pain)

will surely try to make another one, and will try to make it also less harsh on the eyes <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

some info:

steel is reclaimed leaf spring (i know it's frowned upon but hey all good for experience)

total length: 54 cm

blade length: 38 cm

thickness 5-6 mm

handle made out o brass, ebony and walnut that i'll try to carve if i get the inspiration (nothing to complicated)

i know is kinda rough but i made some mistakes while grinding the whole thing

the tang is a bit on the thinner side and some other aesthetic errors, so lost the desire to make it look better than this.

will serve me will as a machete.

hope at least some of you like it, if you have and thoughts on it i will be glad to hear them

till then have a nice time

Elvis

 
Posted : 01/03/2017 6:21 pm
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
Member
 

I am no expert on this style, but I am also venturing into the genre of Nordic/Viking types. I think that is a fine first attempt, although the handle might be a little short. I do like the slight waist in the grip, very seaxy!

I am finding this style is particularly difficult to become proficient at forging and grinding because the geometry is so demanding. It's nice to see some variations from the typical on the forum. Have any ideas on what carving might happen? Thanks for posting.

Joshua States

www.dosgatosforge.com

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Also on Instagram and Facebook as J.States Bladesmith

“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”

 
Posted : 05/03/2017 11:08 am
Posts: 41
Member
Topic starter
 

thank you!

it's quite strange to forge the whole thing, done all i could to prepare for the deformation when i put in the bevels

but still was not enough and the shape changed, but nothing some 40 grit can't fix <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

found some charts of all the seax variation there are and it's quite amazing, there are tons of variation but most go with the broken back and similar ones.

for the carving well i tried my best and ended up looking like crap, i am quite bad a whittling wood.

was aiming for some fairly simple geometric shapes,a combination of runes to bring luck or what not <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' /> eheheh

will make another one once i tweak/fix my new ribbon forge. for this one was limited by the HT oven <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

 
Posted : 05/03/2017 3:43 pm
Posts: 0
New Member Guest
 

This is a style I have never ventured into, but it looks like that one should cut nicely.

Chris

 
Posted : 06/03/2017 12:06 am
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