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Some additional pictures and a description of how you tried the HT for the Hamon would be beneficial for full critique. Better lighting for the photo also helps. Try taking the pics outdoors if you can, or follow some of the photography tips in the Knife Photography sub-forum. Lot's of good info in that.

I will say what I can from looking at the one photo. I'll start by letting you know that I don't believe in "rules" for knifemaking, other than the ones you set for yourself. There are really only goals to be reached and techniques to master. Most of what I am going to say is based upon my personal preferences and how i make this style of knife. Take what you like and leave the rest.

It's a nice piece of Cocobolo and it looks like you did a good job finishing it. The front edge is kind of wonky and the front edge curve doesn't flow all the way from bottom to top. This face should be finished, done, before attaching the scales in final assembly. There is no way to go back and change it once the scales are glued.

The flat grind goes all the way up to the spine, which is good, but it also looks like it went past the edge. I cannot say for certain without seeing a pic of the blade from the spine. The overall shape of the drop point is good, but it looks like the spine goes upward right before the drop. This may have been intentional, but it looks off to me. I prefer the look of a straight line right through the top of the handle and the spine until the drop starts.

The blade finish looks fairly uniform, but it also appears to have an errant coarser grit scratch about halfway up the bevel in front of the hamon. It might be the lighting or a stray piece of cat hair.....

You already told me you thought the front pin looks too far forward. I think both pin placements are too far forward. My personal preference is that the space between the front pin and the front edge matches the space between the rear pin and the rear edge. I typically make this space between 3/16" and 3/8". Larger space for larger pins. I also prefer three pins in a straight line on this style of knife. (it's a Greek architecture thing) down the center line of the handle. With only two pins, it always looks like one is lower than the other, unless the top and bottom of the handle are straight lines. When you put that curve in the handle belly, it pays to have a third pin to follow the arc. It will reinforce the visual effect and look centered.

I like the curve in the dropped choil. It's a nice smooth curve and an appropriate radius size. I wish I could see the relationship to the front end of the handle better. The plunge cut looks like it has a hiccup. Could just be another cat hair....I have two cats and I am forever picking fur off of everything.

At some point you will want to invest in either a stamp or some electro etching equipment that does your name in one go. 

The knife looks like you really paid attention to what you were doing and it came out nicely. I have attached an inked copy of your photo with circles and arrows pointing to the areas I mentioned.

The edge quenched heat line looks nice and well developed; did you bring it out with lemon juice or any other etchant? It seems pretty white right at the transition line (lemon juice is good for that) which is why I ask. I love the addition of a snakeskin insert in the sheath- very nice. I do all my own sheaths, so if I may offer a pointer: I like to use a thinner piece of leather on top of my inlays because it's easier to keep it clean looking on the inside edge if you can't get in there with an edge burnisher. In all, looks good.

Thank you very much. I'll have to remember that next time I make an inlay sheath. It was a bear to get in the corners with the burnishing tool. I used ferric chloride for the etch. 1 part ferric to 4 parts water. Left it for five minutes, scrubbed with oooo steel wool. Did one more 5 minute etch after that. Then scrubbed it with steel wool in water. Then sprayed it really good with WD-40 and scrubbed it down with steel wool again .