This is one of the "I want like this one" orders - the guy, who ordered once a san mai fighter/bowie, called and asked another one.
And there it is - san mai blade with St3 sides, nickel strip for some shiny stuff and dark HVG (O1) core. The handle is Arizona desert iron wood and leather sheath with sone tooling.
I am not lazy, I am on energy saving mode!
Forgot the guard - 99,99% copper and a thin 0,8mm strip of stainless steel between the guard and the handle.
I am not lazy, I am on energy saving mode!
I know this is the third in a row knife with same blade characteristics, but please have some patience, more are coming! 😀
All criticism welcome!
I am not lazy, I am on energy saving mode!
Just before assembly
I am not lazy, I am on energy saving mode!
That is a very good-looking knife. I really like the blade and handle shapes and the choice of materials for the guard and handle are very attractive.
The only criticism I have is on the San Mai cladding. It gets too close to the edge for me. San Mai will do that when you forge the bevels in, or if the stainless layers are too thick. You can make the line between the core and the stainless higher by forging less and grinding more. Over time with repeated sharpening, that stainless will get ground away and change the look. The same is true of this knife you made: Another san mai bowie – Show and Tell – Your Work – American Bladesmith Society Forum
The only other criticism I have is on the sheath belt loop. It is very thick and only stitching is a thin line down the center. It would be more appealing if you made the overlapping parts thinner and stitched three edges or riveted the loop to the sheath. That is just my personal opinion.
As a package, the knife and sheath are both very well made and look great. I am sure the customer will be very happy to own that knife.
“So I'm lightin' out for the territory, ahead of the scared and the weak and the mean spirited, because Aunt Sally is fixin’ to adopt me and civilize me, and I can't stand it. I've been there before.”
Point taken!
When making the bar, I started with a 100/50/10mm HVG (O1) and put two same size pieces of St3 on the sides. The Ni is 0,3 or 0,5mm not sure, so it does not count to the end thickness. You are right, the nickel goes too close to the edge, because I wanted the sides to cover and protect the core, while not exposing the core too much. Now I realise this looks cool, but is worth making it ONLY for STAINLESS cladding, because the St3 will rust just like the core. Next time will use thicker side bars or thinner core or will forge thicker.
For the sheath you are right - one line is too weak (maybe). First I was going to make two parallel lines, than I was going to make a square, like the hunting knife sheaths I make. At the end I decided to go for the cool looks of three parallel lines - the side and the loop stitching, because the knife is a birthday gift for a collector and will never leave the man cave.
I am not lazy, I am on energy saving mode!
