Well done Matthew!

I really like the Damascus pattern in the blade.

Matthew, Can you tell us about the handle wrap?

Sure no problem Lin. this is a technique that comes from medieval swords. In period some things would have been done slightly differently. For instance useing hide glues and sinsle twine rather than the cotton twine and Carpenters glue I use.

First a two peice core of wood I. This case sycamore, is fit to the tang glued and shaped. It is shaped significanly undersized to the final grip size to allow for the wrapping . Next I add risers these are strips of leather I bevel on two sides and glue to the handle core. In this case I added 5 risers three in the middle and one at each end. I then wrapped cotton twine over two of the sections formed by the risers after coating them in glue. I use a drop of super glue to secure the lose end of the twine and trim off thebrest. After that is dry a thin peice of veggie tanned leather 2-3 oz or thinner if oossable. Kid skin works best butbi. Have not been able to find any for some time. It is cut to size so that the ends over lap by 3/4" or so. Both edges are skived down to nothing tapering back the full overlap. the leather is cased (wet) to make it plyable. I use carpenters glue and coat both the handle and the leather. I then fit the leather down molding it to the handle and setting the seam as straight as possable. The whole handle is now tightly wrapped with twine to bind the leather down to the cord and wood. If I want the impression of the twine in the finished grip of let it sit and set up with the twine in place. if not i remove the twine and burnish the leather smooth. Once dry I use oxalic acid to bleach the leather and then dye it. You can also dye the leather before glueing but i find that only works well with dark colors. After the dye is dry a couple of coats of leather sealer and some wax to finish it off.

MP

A couple questions:

The leather seam is on the bottom running parallel?

The end where it meets the fittings; do you leave them long and trim with exacto knife or something like that? Or do they tuck?

Thanks Matthew. Fascinating.

Yes the seam in on the bottom when skived thin enough it is all but iinvisible. invisible. The ends I leave a bit long and trim With a knife. I generally seal the end with super glue and sand it back after dyeing just as insurance. I also tend to use a leather washer at one end. This washer gives a bit of room for things to move around and still be tight with no rattles.

|quoted:

Yes the seam in on the bottom when skived thin enough it is all but iinvisible. invisible. The ends I leave a bit long and trim With a knife. I generally seal the end with super glue and sand it back after dyeing just as insurance. I also tend to use a leather washer at one end. This washer gives a bit of room for things to move around and still be tight with no rattles.

Thanks Matthew.

I finished the scabbard, wood core with a wool felt liner and leather wrap. steel chape and locker with a Damascus skull frog. I am also including a photo of the tip showing the construction of the billet, I am made at myself I adjusted the shape of the point on the grinder with out thinking what that would do to the pattern and thinned the edge bar more than I intended near the point.. I also added one of the wrench, to the wrench I added a lanyard and skull bead to as I keep losing the darn thing! figured if I did so would the customer!

MP