l I have now done this twice now and feel I need some tips. right now I start by going counter-clockwise from 3 to 9 to get the roll started. then go clockwise off the anvil using no face blows and that works till I get it the roll to be 1 inch or so long then it starts getting hard and I tend to try going counter-clockwise again. some of it may be the cold as my tank starts icing up and I need to shake it to keep temperature. my shop is unheated so the old tub of water is in kinda wasteful as I would have to dump it every day in winter and that can add up in the water bill, so I am going to get one of these for my tanks https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PKKHC2Y?pf_rd_p=ab873d20-a0ca-439b-ac45-cd78f07a84d8&pf_rd_r=EN7PFC8C51Y9RKGND4MS. I am still very green at this type and as such, I can easily correct my methods. the first picture is attempt number 2 and made from 1095. the sl=mall squared up one is made from whatever the heck was used to make this very old piece of a sign I found in my back yard. given my current home is 100+ years old, on a corner. I live right next to a rail line that has been active since 1900 and only found it cause some trees had to be removed for the hill behind my home due to disease. the pegs on it were used to affix by peening directional arrows onto the sign and it sparks bright orange and very complex sparks I almost want to say its some form of cast iron or cast steel.
thanks for your guys time
sincerely
Kevin j Stinson
normally jelly roll is an end grain pattern. the few times I have made it (not a favorite of mine) I have rolled it as tight as possible and welded in the round as I went either using a swage block with a round form or a V block. once welded I drew out the bar. you can draw is sq so that the pattern is still end grain twist and grind deep to reveal the pattern or, accordion cut / tile it to get the end grain to show.
when I had messed around with it i was playing with replicating some Seaxs I had examined there was a particular way the pattern flowed around the point I thought was indicative of a jelly roll drawn out and used as a component bar. this turned out to be a dead end as far at the pattern was concerned, but did lead me to finding a few Indonesian and Burmese swords that are a single jelly roll forged out so that the end grain grain shows on the edge , a single tile as it were.
MP
|quoted:
normally jelly roll is an end grain pattern. the few times I have made it (not a favorite of mine) I have rolled it as tight as possible and welded in the round as I went either using a swage block with a round form or a V block. once welded I drew out the bar. you can draw is sq so that the pattern is still end grain twist and grind deep to reveal the pattern or, accordion cut / tile it to get the end grain to show.
when I had messed around with it i was playing with replicating some Seaxs I had examined there was a particular way the pattern flowed around the point I thought was indicative of a jelly roll drawn out and used as a component bar. this turned out to be a dead end as far at the pattern was concerned, but did lead me to finding a few Indonesian and Burmese swords that are a single jelly roll forged out so that the end grain grain shows on the edge , a single tile as it were.
MP
Thank you i Will have to pick up a swage block.
a simple V block is enough, I made one for the anvil out of heavy wall angle iron welded to a shank reinforced with more angle iron.
