Ok anyone have a how to video or a link to one on unfolding steel bars? I cant quite figure it out on my own. I have read about it in chapter 4.8 of Damascus steel theory and practice, however, I cant figure it out. It would help me out a lot to watch a video of it being done as I am very good at monkey see, monkey do. Its basically how i have learned bladesmithing.
Can I assume you are referring to how to "accordion fold" a mosaic damascus billet..... where the pattern in in the end grain of the bar, and you need to get to what will be the flats of the blade? If so, I have a picture listed on my "Bits of Steel" webpage that give you a guideline......
http://www.caffreyknives.net/bits_of_steel.html
You find the image about 1/2 way down the above page.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
|quoted:
Can I assume you are referring to how to "accordion fold" a mosaic damascus billet..... where the pattern in in the end grain of the bar, and you need to get to what will be the flats of the blade? If so, I have a picture listed on my "Bits of Steel" webpage that give you a guideline......
http://www.caffreykn...s_of_steel.html
You find the image about 1/2 way down the above page.
yes, thank you. The book i am reading did not mention the cut's name (at least not yet since i have not finished the book.) Always happy when you respond to my posts Ed as i always get some good advice from you.
don't suppose I could get you to reveal some of the baking lacquers you use to color your steels as i am quite interested in this aspect of decorating a blade.
Years ago I started out using the baking lacquers from Brownells, but have since gone almost elusively to liquid Gun-Kote 2400. It's all done in the final finishing..... etch a damascus blade deep enough that you feel the topography with your fingertip, then using an airbrush, apply the Gun-Kote LIGHTLY....just enough to cover, then bake as recommended. (I found that spray cans deposit far too much on the blade....giving you runs and "blobs" that are very difficult to work out) Once the coating is baked on, and the blade is cool, I use a hard sanding stick, wrapped with 600 grit paper, and using LIGHT pressure, sand the color/Gun-Kote off the high topography of the blade. You have to be super careful not to apply too much pressure when sanding.....you don't want the paper to get down into the low topography and take the color out.....that looks icky. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
The process works much better with finer, tighter damascus patterns than with large, open patterns. With the finer, tighter patterns, it's less likely that the sanding will reach down into the low areas of the topography, and take the color out.....which is where you want the color to remain.
Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net
|quoted:
Years ago I started out using the baking lacquers from Brownells, but have since gone almost elusively to liquid Gun-Kote 2400. It's all done in the final finishing..... etch a damascus blade deep enough that you feel the topography with your fingertip, then using an airbrush, apply the Gun-Kote LIGHTLY....just enough to cover, then bake as recommended. (I found that spray cans deposit far too much on the blade....giving you runs and "blobs" that are very difficult to work out) Once the coating is baked on, and the blade is cool, I use a hard sanding stick, wrapped with 600 grit paper, and using LIGHT pressure, sand the color/Gun-Kote off the high topography of the blade. You have to be super careful not to apply too much pressure when sanding.....you don't want the paper to get down into the low topography and take the color out.....that looks icky. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />
The process works much better with finer, tighter damascus patterns than with large, open patterns. With the finer, tighter patterns, it's less likely that the sanding will reach down into the low areas of the topography, and take the color out.....which is where you want the color to remain.
I understand what your saying. One of my hobbies is painting scale models and i tought myself how to use a airbrush as part of it since i do not like spray cans. thanks for the info. What do you use to thin the coating as i assume its not H2O or airbrush paint thinner.
