As with most things, I think we all are constantly evolving in our methods....most Bladesmiths don't keep "doing it" because they know it all.....it's that insatiable desire to learn. With the combination of steels you mentioned (O1/L6) the way it was described by Kevin is basically a necessity due to the alloys being used.

There are many variables that dictate a given methodology, and there are certainly no "one size fits all" when it comes to making damascus.

In my view, it's about finding/using steels that are what I call "compatible"....by that I reference not only the expansion/contraction of the chosen steels, but also their reactions through all the processes that we take a billet/blade through from concept to completion. I'll step out a limb here and venture to say that the majority of those making damascus are using 1080/1084 & 15N20 for their billets. The reason? Whether they all realize it or not, it's because the two steels are so compatible. 15N20 is essentially nothing more than 1075, with a 1.5% nickel content. It's as close to welding two identical steels together as we can get today.....the expansion/contraction of the two are nearly identical, and they react similarly through all the processes we perform during the building of a blade, yet we still get the end contrast we seek. Since the two steels are so compatible, it also means less failures. Eventually we will discover a better combination, but until that time, I don't think there is a better choice for achieving all the things we desire in damascus than 1080/1084 & 15N20.

Of course that's not to say it should be the ONLY choice....again, desired end characteristics will determine what the Bladesmith uses in his/her damascus, but for all around ease and success, those two steels are my choice, and what I especially recommend to beginners to ensure the best chances for success.

|quoted:

As with most things, I think we all are constantly evolving in our methods....most Bladesmiths don't keep "doing it" because they know it all.....it's that insatiable desire to learn. With the combination of steels you mentioned (O1/L6) the way it was described by Kevin is basically a necessity due to the alloys being used...

You nailed it right on the head Ed. I have developed a careful technique of hot folding that includes many precautions which gives similar effects to cutting and stacking, all due to the alloys that I prefer to use, which will not allow a cold restack in the middle of the process.

I am a huge proponent of the 15n20/1084 mix, and have done enough of my own testing and study to be confident that such a mix comes in at a very close second to the one that I have chosen. I would be using that mix if the 15n20 was available in thicker sections and if it was more responsive to salt bath heat treating. Damascus steel has come a very long ways on the last 20 years and some of the greatest gains have been from careful consideration of the steels used and their compatibility.

|quoted:

You nailed it right on the head Ed. I have developed a careful technique of hot folding that includes many precautions which gives similar effects to cutting and stacking, all due to the alloys that I prefer to use, which will not allow a cold restack in the middle of the process.

I am a huge proponent of the 15n20/1084 mix, and have done enough of my own testing and study to be confident that such a mix comes in at a very close second to the one that I have chosen. I would be using that mix if the 15n20 was available in thicker sections and if it was more responsive to salt bath heat treating. Damascus steel has come a very long ways on the last 20 years and some of the greatest gains have been from careful consideration of the steels used and their compatibility.

Kevin,

Do you have a link to a previous discussion on your particular method of hot-folding O1/L6 damascus?

And if you just had to have patterns requiring cut & stack, how would a person proceed to do it with O1/L6... or just use different steel?

Mike

|quoted:

Kevin,

Do you have a link to a previous discussion on your particular method of hot-folding O1/L6 damascus?

And if you just had to have patterns requiring cut & stack, how would a person proceed to do it with O1/L6... or just use different steel?

Mike

A link would be tough, there have been too many chats on too many sites to even begin to remember where. Cooling that mix from welding requires a series of steps that is akin to spehroidizing in order to not have it self destruct. It really needs much more extra attention to heating and cooling than a 10XX series mix, but it has properties that I feel is worth it for me. Whenever I have had to do designs or patterns what would not work for this I have just used different steels, otherwise it would take me a week just to do a billet. If I hadn't already put the years and effort into working out all the kinks I would probably just go with a different mix, but I am here now and like it.

|quoted:

A link would be tough, there have been too many chats on too many sites to even begin to remember where. Cooling that mix from welding requires a series of steps that is akin to spehroidizing in order to not have it self destruct. It really needs much more extra attention to heating and cooling than a 10XX series mix, but it has properties that I feel is worth it for me. Whenever I have had to do designs or patterns what would not work for this I have just used different steels, otherwise it would take me a week just to do a billet. If I hadn't already put the years and effort into working out all the kinks I would probably just go with a different mix, but I am here now and like it.

Well, I'll see if I can dig up some of the O1/L6 hot cutting stuff you've already donated to the betterment of mankind... maybe haul it back here, if that seems reasonable.

Mike

Got lucky... There is a pretty good description of hot cut welding here. I don't know that it has all the particulars Kevin referred to in his last post here, though.

http://cashenblades.com/damascus.html

Mike