I can only guess, Gary.

Weather fluctuations do change the way I need to tweak my forge sometimes. And as I recall, you don't use flux - correct?

This means you need to have things really dialed in to have the right forge atmosphere.

Could be.

Gary, I have also seemed to have this problem. I use a venturi forge, as i know yours is forced air seems they both have the same problems. A person we both know in are area Steck, helped me with welding problems a few years back. I had trouble one night and called him for help and he said rain and high humidity in are area will affect the weld. And I seem to have to set welds more times if humidity is high or when raining out.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the thoughts.

Gary

I asked the same question, on another forum, several years ago. Never got a reply. I have had trouble welding when the humidity is high. Around the time I originally asked the question, we had had the remnants of a hurricane go through. The humidity was so high that condensation was dripping off my anvil. I couldn't get a weld to stick no matter what I tried. I believe the blower, on my forge, was pulling in too much moisture. It's the only answer I could come up with. I've noticed the same thing on other days when it was really damp.

Dale

Thanks, Dale. You didn't say. Do you flux your billets?

Gary

At that time I did. Now I mostly dry weld.

Dale

|quoted:

At that time I did. Now I mostly dry weld.

Dale

As do I. I was just wondering if this might effect it during high humidity days.

Gary

Today my press seized and squished a billet nearly in half. But that's another story. Ha ha.

I live in Mississippi where it is hot, humid, and often rainy. Early on I heard statements that said that you can't

weld a billet on a rainy day or when barometric pressure is low. Long ago I asked Master Smith Chris Marks who lives in southern Louisiana. He said it was a myth. "I make damascus in hurricanes!" Everyone knows that forges vary slightly with weather conditions, but like Karl said, you just tweak it a little. Now, I know some makers have gotten away from cleaning their steel prior to stacking, but I like it clean and shiny. I bought an old surface grinder and I clean every piece. As importantly in my mind is that every piece is now flat-flat. Stack, tack-weld at both ends, weld on a handle, and submerge in kerosene. Heat the forge up to 2300-2330 degrees (buy a thermalcouple - know what your temps are. Don't guess or go "by eye.") Once the billet comes up to temp, let it soak for ten minutes then go to the press. On the first trip I lightly squeeze the billet, reducing the whole thing by only about 1/8", (Remember, every layer is in contact before it ever goes to the fire) then immediately rotate and continue squeezing on edge or on the bias. Never a second welding heat.

Please don't think I'm bragging or being arrogant, but using this method I simply never have bad welds. Rotating on edge after a simple welding kiss on the press is dramatic proof of a solid weld.

Cheers,

TV

ABS MS

Terry and those following this thread;

Terry I agree with you. I use the very same process as you with the exception, I use an air hammer with flat dies,keeping the hits light,and about an 1/8"

compression. It works every time!

I don't cut corners on this process, because it works.

I think the thermocouple in the forge helps you tweak your fuel,to air mix, and you know your temperature.

I have two forges, one vertical forced air, and a venturi two burner horizontal forge. I have welded in both forges numerous times.

I haven't noticed any difference in welding in high pressure or low pressure weather systems. I do think the weather may affect the maximum temperature

your forge will reach.

This is what I have experienced.

Russell

Im a total newbie! but it was finally wet and rainy in southern California so i figured id try forge welding to see if it was more difficult. I didnt notice much difference. i use a pyrometer to double check my temps and every thing stuck fine. I did two welding passes under my 25lbs little giant and then started squaring the stock and finally gave it a full twist to make sure i had good welds. it turned out as one of my cleanest welds to date. i did have to fiddle with my forge a little more then when its dry out though.

I am not an expert on forge welding. I have only done about 15 billets and a few Hawks and axes. I use borax and a rr burner in a mini forge. I have never even tried kerosene or a dry weld. I did learn that with charcoal forge attempting to weld I can get 1095 to burn like a sparkler! I have worked with industrial ovens for 20 years though. For years I listened to people talk about how the outside weather effects performance. All of these ovens are driven by mod motors and controllers. I have used gas, paratherm, steam, you name it. What my career has tought me is that water boils at 212 degrees at the right elevation, about 208 or 210 I think here in Wichita. If you inject steam under pressure, you introduce higher wet bulb temps or relative humidity values. In a non steam injected setup where you run off of only a dry bulb, your temperature settings drive humidity out on a predictable scale. I actually have a fancy slide rule in my desk with that scale on it. This scale is out there on the web. If you list a dry bulb setting with a certain value, your humidity is predictable. Set an oven at 475 dry bulb with a 165 wet bulb, that is what is going on in there no matter what is happening outside. At the temps we forge at, the humidity is going to be close enough to a zero level to be negligible in the forge. I suspect that even when you pull your billet out into atmosphere, it is hot enough to control the humidity immediately surrounding it until it cools. Just my 2 cents and effort to contribute. Who knows, as I get more experience I may discover that I am way off on this.