I will get on this shortly.

For now:

[media] http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARaXnddUR0c&lc=z23qeppxosiqi3xtfacdp435gomtfjs1igpzroqoje5w03c010c [/media]

I am really interested in hearing about the process of etching wrought iron. If anybody has any good tips it would be much appreciated

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I am really interested in hearing about the process of etching wrought iron. If anybody has any good tips it would be much appreciated

I etch my wrought iron nearly the same as my Damascus. 3-4-5 10 minute cycles until the grain is as visible as I like it for what ever piece I am working on.

First - the guard before etching:

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I etch my wrought iron nearly the same as my Damascus. 3-4-5 10 minute cycles until the grain is as visible as I like it for what ever piece I am working on.

Very cool karl. Thanks!

I have 1 question, do you clean off the wrought iron with acetone or anything before you etch it?

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I etch my wrought iron nearly the same as my Damascus. 3-4-5 10 minute cycles until the grain is as visible as I like it for what ever piece I am working on.

Very cool karl. Thanks!

I have 1 question, do you clean off the wrought iron with acetone or anything before you etch it?

I never use things like acetone or paint thinner, etc. It just never made any sense to me to put chemicals and oils on my steel. If you do, they always leave residue and then THAT needs to be cleaned off.

I want my steel clean before I etch it - so I use soap. I use some Dawn dish soap, hot water and a soft bristled tooth brush.

And many times I do my final sanding just before etching so all I have is raw, clean steel.

many times I do my final sanding just before etching so all I have is raw, clean steel.

This is something that many people miss. When etching, for the best results, you want absolutely CLEAN. Not only oils and such, but also any oxidation that might occur. What do I mean? I went back and forth on the phone with one person who was having all kinds of etching issues.....turns out it was his work flow that was to blame. He would sand and then leave the blade(s) sitting overnight before etching. Next morning he'd clean with windex and TRY to etch..... some area etched, other didn't.... I told him there were likely oxides on the blade that had developed overnight.... but he wouldn't believe me. After a couple more conversations, I got him to hand sand with his finish grit paper immediately prior to etching, then clean, then etch..... and all his problems were solved.

"ABSOLUTELY CLEAN" cannot be overstated when it comes to prepping for etching.

This topic leads me to an interesting question: How long do you use your ferric before replacing? I just ordered more as my solution didn't seem to be etching as quickly as before.

David Lisch once told me his method for fire etching wrought iron. I do not quite remember the details and will check my notebooks, but I think it was heating in the forge until a dull red color, removing and letting it cool. Then wire brushing by hand and repeating until the desired texture appeared. He got this dramatic pitting finish. He then used gun bluing to turn it black.

Gary, I don't know of any specific time length, but how the acid is stored has a lot to do with shelf life. Glass bottles are a killer for acid as exposure to sunlight will weaken the solution. I guess the shelf life probably is directly proportional to the volume and usage rate. What size and type of container do you keep your acid in? I use a black ABS pipe mounted vertically on my bench leg. I also etch using a fish bubbler to agitate the acid for a faster etch.

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This topic leads me to an interesting question: How long do you use your ferric before replacing? I just ordered more as my solution didn't seem to be etching as quickly as before.

It sort of depends on how much etching you do.

I saw an interesting dissertation on FeCl that I might be able to find.

When it stops being really effective, the problem is the H20 - not the acid.

As your mixture eats away the iron, the H20 slowly becomes saturated with iron. When the saturation is complete - the etching is done. The water can no longer support any more iron.

The solution is to add more water!

What I do is keep my mixture in a PVC tube, like many of us do. I also keep a bottle of pre-mixed solution.

As the acid seems to etch less effectively, I'll just dump out a cup or two of old solution and replace it with new solution.

Back in business.

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It sort of depends on how much etching you do.

I saw an interesting dissertation on FeCl that I might be able to find.

When it stops being really effective, the problem is the H20 - not the acid.

As your mixture eats away the iron, the H20 slowly becomes saturated with iron. When the saturation is complete - the etching is done. The water can no longer support any more iron.

The solution is to add more water!

What I do is keep my mixture in a PVC tube, like many of us do. I also keep a bottle of pre-mixed solution.

As the acid seems to etch less effectively, I'll just dump out a cup or two of old solution and replace it with new solution.

Back in business.

Thanks, Karl.

Karl said what I would have. In my experience when etchant "dies".... it's typically due to contamination versus it "wearing out". In addition to a jug of pre-mixed etchant on standby, I also keep a jug of distilled water to add as evaporation lowers the level in my etchant tank.

Has anyone tried masking a logo before etching damascus?

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Has anyone tried masking a logo before etching damascus?

Many guys cover they logo with nail polish.

Look up Cody Hofsommer.

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Many guys cover they logo with nail polish.

Look up Cody Hofsommer.

I have a knife already etched in ferric ready for guard and handle. Im afraid to etch my mark with the high lows from the etch, im thinking if my vinyl is not sitting flush i will get bleeding underneath. What process do you guys use so this doesn't happen?