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I thought I knew what I was doing !

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Posts: 7
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Hello fellow metal movers. Been working metal my whole life. Mechanical enginerd by employment . Lifetime pursuer of knowledge, innovation, and major foulups.

I am looking for information on how to properly heat treat 300M for blade-smithing purposes. I've done ALL my homework on this topic but it's a ultratough (super alloy) and none of the metallurgists I know (2) can tell me more than 52 Rockwell capability. I'd like to make more than hammers from my plentiful stock. Any and all help is appreciated . Including me sending you a piece to mess around with . 

regards,

Nathan

This topic was modified 3 years ago by ABS Administrator
 
Posted : 03/04/2022 12:42 am
ABS Administrator
Posts: 10
Active Member Admin
 

Nathan, I have edited your post to clean up the language a bit.  I don't think any of us are delicate prudes, but the ABS forum operates on a more professional level than other sites on the internet, and the ABS does have youth members who are welcome to visit these pages.  Please be aware if this in future posts.  

 
Posted : 03/04/2022 12:19 pm
Kevin R. Cashen
Posts: 126
Estimable Member Admin
 

C .4 to .46. Mn .6 to .9, Si 1.45 to 1.8, Cr .7 to .95, Ni 1.65 to 2.0, Mo .3 to .6

Heat treat it pretty much like 4340, but with a maximum of only .46 % carbon the Rockwell will never be up to knife edge standards. There just isn’t enough carbon, even without the Cr locking it up, to get much beyond the mid 50’s.  Axes, machetes and the like may be doable.  If I had to use it, I would try working it into damascus, the Cr-Ni content should give you a good contrast.   

This post was modified 3 years ago by Kevin R. Cashen
 
Posted : 03/04/2022 1:44 pm
Michael Bell reacted
Posts: 7
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Kevin,

Thank you for the advice and wisdom . I have no problems doing a pattern steel from it but I'm a little concerned with the thermal expansion /contraction differences with the ultra high silicone content . Tends to weld poorly in my experience . I have a lot of 300M ( old racecar axles ) so please don't misunderstand me. I not trying to reinvent the wheel this , just trying to learn a new process with a cool material .

cheers

Nathan

 
Posted : 03/04/2022 8:20 pm
Posts: 7
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 
Posted by: @abs_admin

Nathan, I have edited your post to clean up the language a bit.  I don't think any of us are delicate prudes, but the ABS forum operates on a more professional level than other sites on the internet, and the ABS does have youth members who are welcome to visit these pages.  Please be aware if this in future posts.  

No worries , I'm just a foul mouthed cowboy trying to make his way in this crazy world . Apologies 

N

 
Posted : 03/04/2022 10:10 pm
Matthew Parkinson
Posts: 550
Honorable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

if it is anything like 4340 then what you pair it will is extremally important.. we found 4340 only played well with a few other steels. 4340/5160 was OK with crazy contrast. 9260 and 6150 also did ok . it did not like 10 series lots of cracks on cooling , it would rip its self apart in hardening. 

MP 

 
Posted : 04/04/2022 6:29 am
Posts: 7
Active Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Matthew ,

good stuff

Hmmmm, maybe I just need to do more experimenting . I've only tried to weld it to 1095, 1084, and 15n20. I have a truckload of 5160 so I'll give that a try. Great idea, thank you

Nathan 

 
Posted : 04/04/2022 10:41 pm
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