I got a batch of 1095 from an unnamed supplier. It's 3/16 x 1.5 inch.
I'm still prototyping my JS performance knife. I've made 3. They all passed my home tests fine, but they're picking up warps while air cooling and after several normalization cycles. The last one I did quenched straight, but then picked up a warp in tempering.
I need to torch temper the spine anyway for this kind of knife so I can do some straightening then. But I've never had to do that with 80crv2 or 1084, and I've made some big thin kitchen knives with that stuff with no issues.
I forge and grind the edge to about 3/64 and the spine around 3/16 before quench. I'm quenching in Parks AAA.
Should I do a full anneal on the stock before even working with it? Would that even help? Should I temper the blade in a straightening jig (two strips of angle iron in clamps)? I've seen some guys do that to avoid warps, but that still makes me think the blade is still holding stress that it shouldn't be.
The more I work with 1095, the more I'm feeling it's better suited for stock removal projects than forging projects.
Thanks,
Nick
Hello, Nicholas!
What temperature are you using for normalizing? The first cycle i do about 1600 °F, in order to get full dilution. Next cycles, at decreasing temperatures.
For the JS, are you complete hardening the blade? Parks AAA seems a slow medium for me, 1095 has low manganese (low hardenability) and i would go to parks 50 or similar.
Also, with 1095, i would go to edge hardening for the JS performance blade, leaving the spine pearlitic. I did mine with 1075 (from Aldo, also low Mn), hardening about 1/3 of the blade, with good results.
Sorry for my bad english and good luck!
Pablo.
