If you're using the ATP anti-scale then it is only water soluble as bought. Once it is baked on then it needs to flake off which it usually does fairly easily. Most will come off during the quench. The only place where I have trouble with it is what gets into my maker's mark which I remove with a pick.

Gary

For the compound that doesn't fall off in the quench, simply let them soak on a bucket or tray of water for thirty to forty-five minutes, it will dissolve off almost completely .

Look at the bright side, decarb is even harder to scrape off a blade. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

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Look at the bright side, decarb is even harder to scrape off a blade. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />

Haha now that I haven't had to deal with yet. But hopefully I never do.

I guess I'm trying to wrap my head around the benefits of the stuff. It adds time coating the blade and letting it dry. Then it takes even more time to remove. So I'm confused what the real purpose of it is.

Is the compound you are using a powder or liquid, I use the powder all the time,the compound remaining after the quench washes off very easy with hot water,just don't go over the max temperature listed in the instructions or you will have a mess

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Is the compound you are using a powder or liquid, I use the powder all the time,the compound remaining after the quench washes off very easy with hot water,just don't go over the max temperature listed in the instructions or you will have a mess

It's like a thick soup or a very watered down clay.