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Salt Pot Pipe/tubing

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Posts: 145
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

From what I've gathered from other threads on this forum, the ideal high temp salt pot would be one with a small volume (for ease of temperature control) and would be constructed of 316L seamless, thick-walled tubing. I found some 3" OD, 1/4" walls, 2.5" ID that looks to fit the bill.

To increase the size (or possible curvatures) of the blade that can be heated (and even to decrease the volume of salt), would it be advisable to heat and crush (gently) the pipe into an oval? Has anyone tried that? Or would this procedure weaken the pipe? It seems that it would be riskier with welded pipe, but perhaps seamless could handle it.

Thoughts?

 
Posted : 30/01/2013 1:06 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 749
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

I've never tried "crushing" the "tank" into an oval shape, but then again I never had the need to. 2.5" ID......I would think that it would be rare to produce a blade that wide...unless your doing swords. 316L has a pretty narrow forging range, and you run the risk of cracking/splitting the pipe if your temp isn't right when "crushing" it. I'd think long and hard about it, and decide if it's NECESSARY. If it's not, then I'd just use the pipe as it is.

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 31/01/2013 10:51 am
Posts: 145
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

|quoted:

I've never tried "crushing" the "tank" into an oval shape, but then again I never had the need to. 2.5" ID......I would think that it would be rare to produce a blade that wide...unless your doing swords. 316L has a pretty narrow forging range, and you run the risk of cracking/splitting the pipe if your temp isn't right when "crushing" it. I'd think long and hard about it, and decide if it's NECESSARY. If it's not, then I'd just use the pipe as it is.

Good points, all. When thinking about an expensive piece of stainless pipe, the word "crush" just doesn't have a good ring to it. Not worth the risk.

I guess I was thinking about the rare time that I'd make some sweeping curved blade (like a kukri or tomahawk), but for that I'd need way more room than the crushed 2.5 inch pipe would give me anyway. Maybe a better strategy would be to make a second salt pot insert of 4"-6" low carbon steel to use when needed.

 
Posted : 31/01/2013 11:35 am
Posts: 2
New Member Journeyman Bladesmith
 

|quoted:

I've never tried "crushing" the "tank" into an oval shape, but then again I never had the need to. 2.5" ID......I would think that it would be rare to produce a blade that wide...unless your doing swords. 316L has a pretty narrow forging range, and you run the risk of cracking/splitting the pipe if your temp isn't right when "crushing" it. I'd think long and hard about it, and decide if it's NECESSARY. If it's not, then I'd just use the pipe as it is.

 
Posted : 31/01/2013 5:34 pm
Posts: 2
New Member Journeyman Bladesmith
 

ED, Don Bell from Lincoln. I just happen to be in need of a new salt pot. Any recomendations where to find one?

Thanks Don

 
Posted : 31/01/2013 5:36 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 749
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

Hi Don!

Ya know, I'm always keeping an eye on the junk yards (Pacific here in town), and every now and then I run across some pipe for salt tanks....I'll keep an eye out for you, and will grab a chunk if/when I run across one.

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 01/02/2013 9:19 am
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