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Small Knife Heat Treating

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New Member Guest
 

I'm a complete neophyte here, so when you answer these questions, keep it simple for Ignorant-But-Not-Stupid!

Over ten years ago, I ground a hunting knife out of an old file. It has served beautifully through field dressing several elk, holds a good edge for longer than my commercial knives, but then I found a blacksmith-farrier who is willing to show me the ropes in simple heat treating and forging. He says the knife could break if it were dropped on a rock. Not wanting that to happen, and being curious about heat treating, and impressed with the Japanese sword he had forged from steel cable and clay-hardened, I started looking at YouTube videos about heat treating/hardening. Lots of enthusiasm, but lots of conflicting information out there! Then I stumbled onto this site, found some very good info, and it seems clay hardening in water is not the best way to go with this blade and this steel. So I joined ABS as part of my Ignorance Reduction Program.

So here's the question: how do I harden and temper that old knife? The file was a mill bastard, 15 or more years old. The blade is 3 1/2" long, obviously already ground to an edge that I'd hate to wipe out, and uses the file tang plus an extension welded on by my blacksmith friend. I kept the original thickness on about 50% of the back for strength, and the taper is flat-ground.

In addition to that old knife, I have a few rough-ground file blades and a supply of W-1 steel in various thickness that I'd like to make into utility knives. I'd like to find a simple method for hardening and tempering these blades that will produce a resilient, tough blade with a hard edge.

Help?

 
Posted : 06/09/2013 11:06 am
Posts: 47
Eminent Member Apprentice Bladesmith (5yr)
 

Ed,

If you are happy with the performance of the knife I would leave it as is and experiment on the next one to replace it.

That said, good file steel is 1095. As long as you didn't turn the blade colors when you ground it, there is no need to re-harden it as it is plenty hard. I would temper it in an oven at 450 deg for two hours, this will actually drop the hardness slightly but make it easier to sharpen and less brittle. Then I would put the blade point down in a container of water up to the middle of the ricasso and use a torch to heat the tang and end of the ricasso to a dark blue, especially in the area of the weld. Do not let the heat turn the edge or front of the ricasso blue. That is the most I would do. You could soft draw the spine of the blade like I described for the tang also but for a skinning knife I don't see a need.

For heattreating search the heattreating forums for the type steel you are using.

Steve

 
Posted : 06/09/2013 1:49 pm
Posts: 317
Reputable Member Journeyman Bladesmith
 

Ed,

I'm with Steve on this one <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> If that knife holds an edge and performs well, all I would do is temper it and draw down the tang and spine.

Ed C.

 
Posted : 06/09/2013 1:58 pm
Joshua States
Posts: 1157
Member
 

Welcome to the wonderful and addictive world of knife making!

Keeping it simple for the ignorant, but not stupid person is difficult because the heat treating (HT) process is the most important part of the process (IMNSHO)and the HT process is different for different steels and different depending on what end hardness you are trying to achieve. That being said, the HT process is two fold:

1. Hardening. This is bringing the steel up to what is called critical heat and quickly cooling it in liquid. Some steels are better hardened in water or brine, others in oils.

2. Tempering. This is heating the hardened steel up to some temperature to "draw back" the hardness making the steel less brittle. What temperature you temper at, and for how many hours depends on the steel, the thickness of the workpiece, and the desired hardness.

You can browse through the forums here on heat treating, or you can go to the great Google and ask "how do I heat treat (insert the type of steel here)" You will undoubtedly get several results some of which will be from metallurgical sites that have very good data on HT processes for the type of steel you are using.

As for that knife you have made from an old bastard file, I don't think it will break if you dropped it on a rock. I have dropped my bastard files on the concrete floor of my shop and they weren't harmed. Your file was heat treated when it was made and your grinding probably softened it if it affected it at all. Leave that knife alone and move on to the next one.

Go to: www.ABANA.org to find the local chapter of blacksmiths in your area. Go to one of their meets and see if there are any knife makers nearby you that you can get to know. A good mentor is worth a thousand books.

Joshua States

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Posted : 12/09/2013 1:04 pm
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