Ed,

I would suggest that you grind "up" into the edge a little to thicken the edge, then lightly radius the edge with all the sanding scratches ( finer the better ) running the length of the blade. Then edge quench the blade. In fact, I would use a torch to "paint" the color into the edge before I quench. I would be afraid a full quench would be too stressful and either wrinkle or crack the edge. But, using the torch is also risky. Dont forget to thermocycle the whole blade previous to the quench heat.

Any time you dont allow yourself room for variables, naturally, you narrow the working range that the steel will tolerate.

Lin,

Thanks so much for the advice. I have it sanded to a 350 grit. I'll re-do the edge as you suggest (I was concerned about it "wrinkle"-ing more than anything...it just looks like it would want to wrinkle), and it will be my first edge quenched blade. Time to make a limiter plate, an edge-quench tank, and maybe an etchant tank <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' /> I have learned some lessons on this one...maybe I can learn some more before it's through. I'll post better pics after the quench (win or lose) for anyone else who might benefit. Thanks again!

Ed C.

That's the attitude Ed. Believe me I learn as much by mistakes than anything. We are walking a fine line between success and failure anyway in quenching a blade. But we have to try. Let us know what happens. Lin

I just ordered some aluminum for the limiter plate, as well as a couple different sizes of iron pipe I'll use to get an even heat when heat treating blades. It may be a week or so before I get this done, but I'll post it when I do <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//cool.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt='B)' /> . Thanks again for the help.

My first time on the forum.

I quench in Goddard's Goop in a 9 X 12" metal cake pan. I just hold the blade at an angle that allows the quenchant to cover the blade from about 1/3 back from the point, slanting back through the lower portion of the tang.

When you heat the blade, be sure to heat part of the tang also. This keeps the tang from drawing the needed heat away from the rear part of the edge, allowing it to get fully hard. Don't worry about the tang's being hard. You will use a propane torch to draw the hardness out of the tang from the end right up to the ricasso, or just before the plunge cut. Take the colors all the way through the spectrum to gray, and you will be able to drill the tang without difficulty.

What is Goop? I started with 2# hog lard, and 2# of paraffin wax. Melted it in the pan, added about 1/2 cup motor oil to keep the critters from eating it, mixed it up, and began using it. From time to time I have to add more bacon grease, because the stuff does tend to stick to the blades. I also add a bit of left over candle wax to keep the mixture's ability to congeal to a solid when not in use. Makes for less likelihood of jostling or spilling when in transit for a demonstration.

Try it. You might like it. I use it for blades up to 8" long.

Just a note here...

The knife is finished and pics posted in the "Critiques" thread under " 1084 Skinner". I edge quenched in canola after following Lin's advice (above). It worked great! Thanks for the help!