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Quenching Oils For Hamons

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camille_sennegon
Posts: 19
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Topic starter
 

I want to increase the quality of my blades by all the means that i can..and also my hamons..I would like to buy a can of quenching oil, but i don't know what i should buy between parks 50 or parks AAA who have a slightly longer cooling rate...but you have less tention in the blades...i use french steels like c130/w2 like or xc75/1075..80crv2..100c6

What do you think ?

 
Posted : 16/10/2018 12:55 pm
Kevin R. Cashen
Posts: 735
Member
 

|quoted:

I want to increase the quality of my blades by all the means that i can..and also my hamons..I would like to buy a can of quenching oil, but i don't know what i should buy between parks 50 or parks AAA who have a slightly longer cooling rate...but you have less tention in the blades...i use french steels like c130/w2 like or xc75/1075..80crv2..100c6

What do you think ?

Since you are doing hamon, you will naturally be using a more shallow hardening steel, steels with alloying that are deeper hardening will fight you in creating hamon as they will tend to ignore the clay. Due to this you will want a fast (7-10 second) oil Like Parks #50. W2 and 1075 are ideal for this work and will respond best with the #50. 80CrV2 will respond best to a medium speed oil (11-14 seconds) like AAA but will not produce good hamon as the hardening will want to ignore the clay and harden underneath it.

"One test is worth 1000 'expert' opinions" Riehle Testing Machines Co.

 
Posted : 16/10/2018 1:53 pm
camille_sennegon
Posts: 19
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Topic starter
 

Thank you for you answer !! My bad, i just wanted to say that i want to use this oil for jamons..but also for quenching other steels without the need of doing a hamon..like on 80crv2..but if i quench that steel in parks 50, is that bad ? I never used that steel for the moment so i don't know the specs..i check that now 😉

 
Posted : 16/10/2018 3:24 pm
Kevin R. Cashen
Posts: 735
Member
 

Parks #50 was developed as a replacement for water quenching, so using it on alloy steels is as close to water quenching them as you can get without actual water. Something like 80CrV2 was intended for oil quenching, so it would be safe to say that you could expect greater chances of distortion or possibly cracking if optimum hardening is achieved.

"One test is worth 1000 'expert' opinions" Riehle Testing Machines Co.

 
Posted : 16/10/2018 7:24 pm
camille_sennegon
Posts: 19
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Topic starter
 

So i just checked and 80crv2 can be water quench if what i read is right..so using fast quenching oil for this steel shouldn't be an issue...maybe im wrong but i don't have a graphic with the good quenching speed for that steel

 
Posted : 17/10/2018 1:07 am
Kevin R. Cashen
Posts: 735
Member
 

|quoted:

So i just checked and 80crv2 can be water quench if what i read is right..so using fast quenching oil for this steel shouldn't be an issue...maybe im wrong but i don't have a graphic with the good quenching speed for that steel

You can give a try with whatever you like, but I am looking at a cooling curve for 80CrV2 as I type this and it is nothing that I, myself, would quench in water, and the spec sheets that I have designate it as an oil quenching steel. Perhaps in rather large cross sections one could get away with water.

"One test is worth 1000 'expert' opinions" Riehle Testing Machines Co.

 
Posted : 17/10/2018 8:47 am
camille_sennegon
Posts: 19
Member
Topic starter
 

|quoted:

You can give a try with whatever you like, but I am looking at a cooling curve for 80CrV2 as I type this and it is nothing that I, myself, would quench in water, and the spec sheets that I have designate it as an oil quenching steel. Perhaps in rather large cross sections one could get away with water.

I also find that really strange..maybe a fake information..i will oil quench so..thank you!

Camille

 
Posted : 17/10/2018 1:57 pm
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