Zach, canola will work fine. Heat the oil to 100 to 120 before quench. If the blade gets too hot the oil can flare up, so you need to have some sort of cover you can put over the tank to damp the flames. Safety glasses, leather apron, and gloves are a must. Of course if the blade gets hot enough to cause a flare up you have other issues, like overheating. So go with the canola and let us know.

Brion

zach;

I used peanut oil for years. It is not perfect but it will work better than most of the stuff you can concoct on your own.It has a very high flash point.

Plus; if you are tempering in the kitchen oven; it doesn't stink up the house. An added benefit to a harmonius knifemakers life!!

M

I used Vet Grade mineral oil for years....went through both my JS and MS using it. Here in Montana, there are Farm/Ranch stores all over the place, and they all carry it in gallon jugs. If you investigate commercial quenchants, you'll find that the vast majority of them are 98-99% mineral oil, with the remainder of ingredients being "wetting agents" and flame retardants. As with the oil Brion mentioned, pre-heat it to 130-160F.

It's only been about 4 years since I started using Parks 50, but I still keep a quench tank of mineral oil and use it regularly.

I had no idea Houghton was going for that much now. Have you tried Maxim oil in Texas? The last I knew they sold Park Metallurgical/Heat Bath’s #50 for around $75 a bucket. The #50 will work as well, if not better, for your steel choice at less than half the price you are being quoted. Among straight vegetable oils, rapeseed oil (canola) has been used in a pinch by minor industries, particularly in Europe in the past. It has a sweet spot for cooling around 130F. and will not threaten you with toxic fumes. Gently heat it before hand. Just as with any oil, keep all the hot steel below the surface and you won’t have fire so long as the tank stays under 150F.

Due to safety concerns (and liability issues associated) I no longer give much advice on alternatives to quenchants, particularly when in association with the ABS. Canola is innocuous enough to touch on, but there are numbers of other things people have put hot steel into over the years, myself included, that are rather questionable when it comes to health and safety. From automotive products to almost explosive chemicals, none of them offer any advantage that can offset the risk, and none even come to level with all of the benefits offered by a product designed solely to perform this task.

I think with canola, you have found the most effective and safest alternative to an actual quench oil. I would go with that until you can afford the tool made for the job. When you are ready to make that step, I encourage you to do it without hesitation. It may seem like a lot compared to a jug of cooking oil, but it is actually one of the cheapest investments when weighted against the benefits. A $1500 Bridgeport would be a steal for those who feel there is no substitute, and all it does is cut metal, your quenchant is at the heart and soul of what makes or breaks a knife. It is a tool, when well cared for, will remove more variables from your learning curve than any other, that peace of mind alone is worth a little extra.

Zach,

You've just been advised by four very good knife makers so there is nothing I could add.

But I will. Three years ago I bit the bullet and got five gals. of park 50. I paid about 120 dollar's shipped to my door.

Compared to belts, sand paper, epoxy, bits, end mills, bandsaw blade's, and so on and so forth its the cheapest stuff in my shop.

You can quench a bunch of blades in five gal. Mine still looks great. Don't know how many knives I've made since I got it but its a lot.

Get some you won't be sorry. Although I didn't get mine from Maxim in Texas Ive heard nothing but good things about them.

Hope this helps.

Greg

as soon as i can afford some industrial quench fluid i will get it. but for now canola has to be it. once i sell the knife i am working on i will upgrade. like most of you guys i am a firm believer in buying quality. thanks for all the help <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

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...You can quench a bunch of blades in five gal. Mine still looks great. Don't know how many knives I've made since I got it but its a lot..

Greg, you bring up a very good point that bears repeating. The greatest advantage of all with a formulated quench oil is long term consistency in reliable results. Since this stuff was made for this task, it was designed to remain chemically stable while having red hot steel plunged into it again and again. In fact it was made to stand up to these conditions in heavy industry, which is far beyond what heat treating a few knives a month will do. Taken care of, this is a very long term and durable investment. But the key words are "taken care of."

By "looks great", you probably mean that it is still the lovely crystal clear light amber oil you received, and not full of sediment or soot and burned to black. This is important. Habitually catching such an oil on fire is as negative to your investment as clamping the belt on your Bader so it can't move and then flipping the switch and walking away. Keeping a good quenchant covered when not in use is a very good idea. For edge quenching, I recommend folks get a pan of canola and spare the Parks #50 an unworthy death. Not only are flash oil fires extremely dangerous, they are awful for the life of a good quenchant.

Taken care of, a good quench oil should provide the average knifemaker years of consistent and quality performance.

Kevin,

Yes I can see the pile of satinite clay at the bottom.

Greg