I just ordered up some 1 1/2" x 1/4" 5160 steel from Admiral for creating my JS performance test blade. I plan on making at least 2 if not 3 as close to identical as I can to test to distruction in advance of the actual test. I have a couple of questions though.
I selected 5160 since it is the single most recommended steel for the test. Seems it's pretty hard to screw it up, but knowing me, I'll find a way. Anyway, I normally work with the 10xx steels or the W's, and I normally clay quench in parks 50. Parks seems too fast for 5160, so I am thinking of using mineral oil as suggested, or peanut oil, which I've tried before and seems to work pretty good. Everyone seems to suggest edge quenching the blade, even doing a triple quench. What is the logic in the triple quench? Also, since I'm more comfortable with the clay quench, would you recommend claying up, then doing an edge quenche with the clay to help promote ashi? Am I way off base here? One of the reasons I was thinking about doing this is someone stated that sometimes 5160 can have hardened spikes into the soft area since it is deep hardening. It would be my luck that if I make multiple blades, the one I actually test with would develop this hardened spike and snap off during the actual test.
Last one for now, I am building a vertical heat treat forge so I can dial in the temp and want and soak the blades if I want, is there any benefit to soaking 5160 for 10 minutes or so? In Ed Caffrey's video on basic bladesmithing, he shows heating with a torch and quenching, but I figure since I'm going to have the HT forge, I might as well use it.
Thanks in advance.
Man... me can't type 2 gud ta day. 
Tate, Glad to see you going for it. Sounds like you are getting your home work in order. I just tested last August with Ed Caffrey. 5160 was my steel choice also. Using Mineral oil as my quenchent. 3 cycles for anealing / 3 cycles for the quench / 3 cycles for the temper. I will say that in that edge quenching worked very well for me. I built and tested 6 blade besides the one that did the actual performance test. I edge quenched about 1/4" on all blades. Using the Actelene torch method is the only way I have ever heat treated my blades. Remember that the test blade needs to be able to bend to 90 deg. and cannot have a break or crack more than a 1/3 of the blade width.
I'm sure that others will be able to help out here with your other questions.
Good luck with the journey
Bruce
Hi, Bruce one question.
As I read in your post you quench three times the blade, is this correct?
I had heard about this procedure aplaid in the steel 52100 for not having a total conversion of austenite with a single quench.
What benefits do you found in this procedure applied in 5160?
Very interesting post.
Saludos
Mariano
Mariano Gugliotta
|quoted:
Hi, Bruce one question.
As I read in your post you quench three times the blade, is this correct?
I had heard about this procedure aplaid in the steel 52100 for not having a total conversion of austenite with a single quench.
What benefits do you found in this procedure applied in 5160?
Very interesting post.
Saludos
Mariano
Hi Mariano, Yes 3 quenches is correct. 5160 also benefits from multiple quenches much the same way as 52100. While 3 quenches may not be the magic number this is what most bladesmith's use as a rule for 5160. When making my performance test blade I wanted to put everything in my favor. In my humble opinion it would be all about grain refinement. Hopefully Kevin can explain much better as I'm no metalurgist.
Hope that helps.
Bruce
Thanks Bruce!
I'm translating the process that I use in my blades to share with everyone.
Thank you very much for your answer.
Saludos
Mariano
Mariano Gugliotta
My way....
I will use SAE 5160 or 9260
1) Paying big attention to the forging temperatures. Forging is the first step in my heat treatment.
2) normalizing: heating up to 1652°F and let it cool on the air
3) subcritical annealing: heat allways UNDER non magnetic and let ir cool on the forge or furnace 1274°F
4) Quenching: I only use one, I heat only the edge with the gas torch to 1562°F and submerge in hot quenching oil at 104° F degrees
5) first tempering at 482°F for about 30 minutes and a second tempering at 752°F for others 30 minutes.
That heat treatment and a goood flat/convex grind.
Well now remains practice and see whats to corrected before the big day <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmiths.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//wink.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=';)' />
I apologize if any part is not understood, my English is very bad and often I can not properly explain the technique I use in my blades.
Saludos
Mariano
Mariano Gugliotta
