new guy roaming the pages doing some reading later than I should at my age.......lol. The title of the steel caught my eye, I have a bit of this steel sitting and a grand nephew who wants uncle to make him a knife for his 14th birthday. I keep hearing about it's toughness and I kinda think that is perfect for a 14 year old boy in mid Wa State. So all of this said I have a couple of other forge questions so I can follow advice above (already have 5 gallons of Maxum AAA oil on hand). I recent bought a digital pyrometer and k type thermocouple. What is best placement for thermocouple in relation to the burners? This forge is small 12 long x 4"x4"dual 3/4 burners. Truth is if I do not watch it I can go way past heat treatment temps hence the new equipment for it.
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
That small of a forge is going to get screaming hot really fast.
I think I would spend a lot of time going in and out with the blade watching your colors and looking for the decalescence on the way up. This will probably be a better way of judging heat that trying to use a heat sensor on a forge so small.
That's what I would do.
Karl B. Andersen
Journeyman Smith
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This forge is small 12 long x 4"x4"dual 3/4 burners. Truth is if I do not watch it I can go way past heat treatment temps hence the new equipment for it.
Don't know your burner type... naturally aspirated or blown... but a general rule of thumb is: 1 - 3/4", naturally aspirated, burner will take 350 cu. in. to welding temps. There are, of course, qualifications in that. Actual efficiency of burner for size, amount of insulation & lining/coating material, forge interior shape, burner placement, and some others... all effecting heat generated to forge walls... like heat circulation/evenness of interior heating efficiency.
Mike
As a person insists they have a right to deny others their individual freedoms, they acknowledge those others have the right to deny them theirs...
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That small of a forge is going to get screaming hot really fast.
I think I would spend a lot of time going in and out with the blade watching your colors and looking for the decalescence on the way up. This will probably be a better way of judging heat that trying to use a heat sensor on a forge so small.
That's what I would do.
it does get wicked hot fast even @ 1/2 lbs of fuel, that is exactly my process currently Karl. Getting ready to build a larger one honestly. To that end I still have to know the sensor typically goes in them if your willing :-). Also need to finish my heat treat kiln, it is 26"long inside......honestly any bending or stooping is killing my spine injuries of late so those projects have been idling.
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
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Don't know your burner type... naturally aspirated or blown... but a general rule of thumb is: 1 - 3/4", naturally aspirated, burner will take 350 cu. in. to welding temps. There are, of course, qualifications in that. Actual efficiency of burner for size, amount of insulation & lining/coating material, forge interior shape, burner placement, and some others... all effecting heat generated to forge walls... like heat circulation/evenness of interior heating efficiency.
Mike
Reil burners, .030 fuel orifices, 2 inches of kwool / 1/4 of mezzo skimmed over it. Will go white hot @ 7lbs in 10-15 minutes with 2 lbs of steel in there once wormed up
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
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Reil burners, .030 fuel orifices, 2 inches of kwool / 1/4 of mezzo skimmed over it. Will go white hot @ 7lbs in 10-15 minutes with 2 lbs of steel in there once wormed up
Yow! If you put wings on it, you could go to the moon... =]
Mike
As a person insists they have a right to deny others their individual freedoms, they acknowledge those others have the right to deny them theirs...
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Yow! If you put wings on it, you could go to the moon... =]
Mike
it was / is my first forge, so naturally it is over board.......lol. Money is real tight here but still have plans for a new larger model more easily controlled and readable via probe and pyrometer. Winging it worked while I was blundering, given this new direction I want to be more accurate in all of my actions to get repeatable & qualifiable results. The 80CRV2 steel is an example of specific temps and soak times to get as much as possible out of a really tough material. Will keep the might mouse for hammer heads and such I am sure though.
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
Yes, but every steel has specific points in a HT process that, if all are hit, will maximize the steels potential. Push comes to shove though, there is not 1 in 100,000 people that can find the differences in a verifiable manner... either in one steel or even in different knife-suitable steels. Say they can, yes. Take it to a real metallurgist, and the answer is going to be "No".
Seems to me, with knife making metallurgy, it's so much more about trying, knowing something about what a person is trying for, and honesty. It will be a really nice knife simply because you give a ####.
Mike
As a person insists they have a right to deny others their individual freedoms, they acknowledge those others have the right to deny them theirs...
|quoted:
Yes, but every steel has specific points in a HT process that, if all are hit, will maximize the steels potential. Push comes to shove though, there is not 1 in 100,000 people that can find the differences in a verifiable manner... either in one steel or even in different knife-suitable steels. Say they can, yes. Take it to a real metallurgist, and the answer is going to be "No".
Seems to me, with knife making metallurgy, it's so much more about trying, knowing something about what a person is trying for, and honesty. It will be a really nice knife simply because you give a ####.
Mike
well when it comes to the steel itself there are some folks with more experience than me for sure. So for my part I ask and take note with the answers and do my best to apply the answers and document as much as possible. Definitely going to have to build another forge I can read the temps in soon, mighty mouse is ok but it is a lot of eye ball work and that is not the direction I want to be headed anymore the whole winging it thing does not exactly draw collectors who can & will pay for higher standards. I do give a hoot, but because I really like either being good or getting good at what ever I do. I want to be good at this as well 🙂
Minimum Effort = Minimum Results every time
This conversation is about 80CRV2 steel. Please try to stay on topic. If it tends to be steered towards forges, please start another thread in the appropriate established topic. It gets confusing and hard to re locate very quickly. Thanks
I and the other moderators want to help with questions but are busy and have to wait till a better time. This will help to save time and make sure we don't have to re read several off topic threads. Again, thank you for understanding.
