I have completed one knife with a copper guard. It was 1/4" thick x 3/4 wide. I had alot of trouble getting the slot cut in and getting it shaped. After the fact someone told me that I could heat it to a red glow and quinch it in water and make it easier to work, but I guess I did'nt do it right does anyone have any advice on this. I really like the way it looks finished, but don't like the way it works.
Hi Jason,
Exactly what problems were you having with the copper? Copper is usually pretty soft, so it cuts easily. But, is bad about plugging the teeth on your file.
Jason, copper can be worked easily if it is annealed. You will have to do this frequently as copper does work harden. To anneal it just heat it to between 1000 to 1350 degrees, then quench in water. You will have to do this again and again. I find it works very easily, but as Steve said it will clog files and is kind of gummy when machining. It also will tarnish and lose its luster fairly quickly if not protected with some kind of sealer such as wax. Just have to keep it polished.
Brion
Brion Tomberlin
Anvil Top Custom Knives
ABS Mastersmith
Looks good to me. What kind of probs were you having?
It's just worked different from nickel silver or stainless. Just seemed harder to work to me, guess my thinking was that since it was so soft it would be easier. I only annealed it once the guy that told me that left the part out about having to keep doing it. Thanks for all the replies. I love this forum best thing I've ever joined. Beleive me there will be more stupid questions. This forum has helped me tremedously already.
Thanks again guys,FORGE ON!!!
Jason
Jason,
I share your pain. I've done several knives with copper guards and, to me, the stuff is "gummy" to work with. Personally, I think it might be easier to work if it were in a hardened state but I haven't tried it yet. You've gotten my wheels spinning. I think I'm going to work harden a piece and see if it is any easier to work with.
Just curious, was it easier for you to work with after you annealed it?
Like others have said, it likes to clog up a file. I've also had difficulties drilling the slot for the tang. One thing that helps is to keep your drill bit choked up in the chuck as far as you can get away with. The shorter the exposed bit the stiffer it is and the less it likes to walk or drift on you. Someone here mentioned that to me a while back... talk about a "duh" moment for me. Sometime you can't see the forest for the trees. That's the beauty of the forum. There's always someone with more experience and they're always willing to help. These guys and gals are great people.
My usual process is to drill a line of holes for the tang slot and then use my Dremel tool to remove the webbing. In it's "gummy" state, the copper likes to grab the Dremmel bit and gouge the slot if I'm being too agressive, so in this case, slow and steady wins the race, so-to-speak. Once the webbing is removed I clean it up with a file cleaning it every two or three strokes.
For what it's worth, I also like to pre-shape the guard/bolsters as much as possible before the handle material and or spacers are epoxied. Copper, like most guard materials, likes to absorb heat, not dissipate it. If things get too warm at the grinder it will loosen the epoxy and potentially cause any number of problems for you. It's not tough to guess how I figured that one out. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//angry.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':angry:' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />
This is only how I've worked with it. There's probably a lot that I haven't figured out yet. Hopefully someone with more experience will help us both out.
Good luck!
Rick
I've done a little copper work with the local ABANA group. I was told to add a little vinegar or acid to the water I quench it in to remove the scale from the surface when quenching....
A forge can get kinda hot for copper. I turned a near completed bowl into a puddle in one... Just saying.
It's like Brion said you have to keep annealing it. It helps but it is what it is. I guess if it were all easy everybody would be doing it. Rick, I do it the same way as you with the same problems, annealing does help some tho. I with you on working the guard to almost finished to. If you get it to hot it changes color then yoou have to try to clean it up with the blade in it not easy by the way. Thankks for the help guys
FORGE ON!!
Jason
If you watch your temperatures, you can forge your copper to shape. Iv'e heated it and forged it in my forge before. You do have to watch it though. It melts quick once it hits its melting temp.
