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Takedown Nut Options

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Thaddeus Stager
Posts: 29
Eminent Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

I am at a little bit of a stand still with a takedown knife on my bench...

The last TD I made, I threaded the tang and used a 10-32 rod coupling with a SS allen button head cap screw with a washer to use as a seat to the handle.

I can't say that say that it didn't work but it wasn't something I was that proud of.

I have looked around at several different designs and it seems like most makers are turning their own and even some making specialty tools for assembling?

This is really about a fit and finish test for myself, not to say that the knife will be disassembled that often.. but when it does I am looking for the consistency of everything coming back together and being aesthetically pleasing.

My question is:

What is the best way to accomplish this for a guy that plans on making a handful of TD's over the next few years?

By the way, I don't own a lathe... yet

Thank you,

Thaddeus

 
Posted : 15/12/2017 5:18 am
Matthew Parkinson
Posts: 546
Honorable Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
 

I have always turned them on a lathe then either filed flats or drilled a holes for a wrench/ pin. This has been my method for swords for years, and I do the same on knives as well.

 
Posted : 15/12/2017 6:44 am
Posts: 126
Estimable Member Apprentice Bladesmith
 

I've used the female side of a corby bolt before. My particular one wasn't a true takedown, as I ground the head down flush after final assembly, but the concept is sound.

 
Posted : 15/12/2017 1:29 pm
Thaddeus Stager
Posts: 29
Eminent Member Journeyman Bladesmith (5yr)
Topic starter
 

Thank you men!

I think the best thing for me right now will be to outsource a few of these until I can get a lathe...

Maybe a local machine shop or is there someone you could recommend?

Thanks again!

 
Posted : 17/12/2017 5:01 pm
Ed Caffrey
Posts: 749
Prominent Member Master Bladesmith
 

I will often use a 4-40 threaded steel clevis (generally used for radio controlled airplane/vehicles). These have a 1/16" pin. I drill a 1/16" hole in the tang, split the clevis pin into the hole....and the other end is a female 4-40 thread... then you can use a 4-40 screw, or once you get a lathe, make your own.

I like these because the allow for some slight movement when assembling a knife....making a good fit of all the parts much easier. Here's a Amazon link:

https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes-Steel-4-40-Clevis/dp/B001BHI3NW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1513553641&sr=8-2&keywords=4-40+steel+clevis

Although some might say that a 4-40 thread is too small to hold, it's not..... you will strip threads before the clevis gives out. I also "glue" everything together, so the clevis is there to hold things in place until the "glue" cures.

Ed Caffrey, ABS MS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
www.CaffreyKnives.net

 
Posted : 17/12/2017 6:36 pm
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