I have no experience with stabilized woods.
I do have experience with staining and sanding processes on traditional wooden pipes that I make.
It seems the stabilization process would "clog" up the pores and not allow the stains to set in.
Is this wrong headed? Can the stabilized woods still react favorably to staining?
Posting a picture of a pipe I made just to illustrate results of my staining processes.
I think inhaling burning polymers would be a serious consideration.
Mike Williams
Master Smith
you can stain or dye after stabilizing but the effect is not as deep and is a little different than unstabilized wood. how ever the stabilizing process it self can be used to stain the wood and that color will go all the way through the wood.
MP
I've done a fair number of handles in both stabilized maple burl and stabilized yellow cedar burl. The stuff I've worked with was very dense, and not much would penetrate in. I'd usually sand to 600 grit or so, give it a coat of tru oil, and buff. I can't imagine having much luck staining it, at least not having the finish be remotely even. If I wanted a different color, I'd start with buying dyed stabilized wood.
|quoted:
I think inhaling burning polymers would be a serious consideration.
Haha. I didn't mean to infer I would make a pipe out of stabilized wood. Only that I didn't want to spend the money and time on stabilized wood for a knife handle thinking I could apply the same techniques to finishing the wood.
By the way, your name is on my ABS class certificate. It was 12 years ago. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//ohmy.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':o' /> <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//ohmy.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':o' />
Thanks for the info everyone. That gives me what I need to know.
