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Some Questions On Guards And Fittings

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I've only done a handful of knives and haven't yet used a lot of the materials that I commonly see used for guards and spacers. With that said, I'm looking to get some materials and was hoping for some thoughts from you more experienced folks. Your thoughts on pro's and con's, how you finish them, etc. would be very appreciated.

Stainless-

416 stainless seems to be one that comes up fairly often. On a knife supplier's site, I saw 410 stainless offered in more dimensions that would be easier, but is it comparable to 416? Are there particular stainless steels to stay away from?

Bronze-

I recently saw a picture of a knife made by M.S. Lin Rhea with a bronze spacer that looked really nice and I wouldn't mind trying to use some on a knife sometime. On a knife supply site, I found "phosphor bronze" and "silicon bronze". Is the difference significant or do either work just as well? Are there some particularities when working with bronze as far as filing or finishing or would it be similar to brass or another metal?

When it comes to a silver colored guard or spacer, it seems a similar finish can be achieved whether using nickel silver, mild steel, stainless, or even some carbon steel of the same type the knife is made of, just depending on the level of sanding. Are there particular things that make you want to use one material over the other? I've experienced first hand the trials that can come from using steel that is relatively hard and making that transition to the wood handle material more or less makes you want to pull your hair out... Do you generally look for a metal that is as soft as the use of the knife would allow for the guard/spacers? I tend to like the various silver colored guards and not so much the brass ones, but have used brass as a spacer on one knife. I've also used copper which I found heats up REALLY fast when trying to grind it to the same dimensions as the handle.

I'm also very impressed with some of the knives I've seen that incorporate wrought iron, but I've been a bit intimidated to try it. I've heard something about the incongruities (I'm sure there's a better word for it, but a lack of understanding on my part keeps me from it...) making it difficult to work and finish?

I know this is probably a bit of a broad topic/question, but any thoughts any of you might have will certainly add to my limited knowledge. Thanks in advance for the help.

Jeremy

Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith

 
Posted : 15/10/2011 9:03 am
Lin Rhea
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I've experienced first hand the trials that can come from using steel that is relatively hard and making that transition to the wood handle material more or less makes you want to pull your hair out...

Jeremy,

As far as the materials you mentioned go, every one has it's peculiarities but the differences are not that much. The bronze you mentioned is Silicon Bronze and it works essentially the same as brass even as far as using the same dye for filework backgrounds. To my eye the differences of these metals for fittings allow for color variety and preference. Some collectors prefer stainless fittings to minimize the possiblilty of tarnish. You get used to working the different materials.

Now to the quote above. It dont matter which of the various metals you chose for the fittings. The problem of getting dips behind the guard into the handle material will always happen unless you change the technique a little. This is one of the "secrets" that come from contemplation and the frustration that makes some kind of change a necessity. It's so simple you might dismiss it as ineffective, but let me assure you the principle will fix the problem. The only catch is it takes a little dicipline and means you'll take longer to get it finished.

When shaping the handle and blending the fitting to the handle, there is some amount of "hogging", if you will, to remove the bulk of material and get close to the finished shape and demension. We tend to do that at a rapid clip, right? OK, it's time to proceed with a finer grit (or by hand). Here is the "secret". Slow things down and use lighter pressure and a backing commensurate with the flow of the piece. The farther and finer along you go till right up to when it's finished, use sharp belts/paper and a lighter pressure.

Lin Rhea, ABS Mastersmith

[email="[email protected]"]Email me[/email]

www.rheaknives.com

 
Posted : 16/10/2011 9:19 am
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Lin-

As always, I appreciate your thoughts. Might have to give you a call again sometime for some of the finer points on not dishing out handle material behind the guard...

Jeremy

Jeremy Lindley, Apprentice Smith

 
Posted : 17/10/2011 9:39 am
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