Hello Shawn. I will tell you what I do. On the alignment pins, they do usually go all the way through the spacer set and into the handle material. As for the guard, it depends on the guard. If it is a standard oval bowie guard that is rather thin, no mine do not go into the guard, a thicker guard like a fighter guard, yes they do. Check out the wip on the persian TOMB knife for an example. The bull nose is done as you say. I have the spacer and guard on the tang and seat the handle material, then trace the spacer shape on to the face of the handle material. Then you can bullnose to the marked line.

Another thing with stag. You will usually need to bed the stag with epoxy. The reason for this is the pith in the interior of the stag. You need to remove the pith as it is really soft, then you have to fill the cavity with epoxy. Coat the tang and faces of the guard and or spacer with oil or vaseline and use a good five minute epoxy. Fill the void with the handle on from the butt end and allow the epoxy to set up. You should then be able to remove the handle without it sticking to the tang or spacer. It may take a little force. You should a nice bed in the stag after that and a good tight fit for the tang.

Hope this helps. It is good that you are trying new things. Let us know how it goes and if you have more questions.

Brion

Brion does this much the same as I do. Sometimes, I will fit the pins even into thin guards. Just depends on the build and whether I feel it would help with assembly and/or work on the parts. You just have to be careful not to drill through the thin material.

I typically try to fit my collars, ferrules and spacers tightly to the tang. I just like knowing that the fittings are solidly supported by the tang when the knife is assembled. The alignment pins, I use primarily for keeping the parts in position for work done to them off of the knife.

Brion & Steve,

I have always used AcraGlas for filling the center pith in stag but have heard some recently who have had good results using a two part epoxy putty. Have you tried it yet and if so with what results?

Gary

Thanks Brion and Steve. I think im going to pin the collar to the guard as well as the stag. I think itll just help me keep thing where i want them.

I really like to keep as much of the bark on the stag as i can, hence why i want to bull nose the front to the collar. Is it acceptable practice to have some of the flat of the collar showing in the grooves of the stag? Or would it be better to smooth the stag where they meet? or is it just a matter of personal preference?

Also, Im going to silver solder a coupling nut to the underside of the butcap and thread the tang to tighten it all up, since its not a take-down and i dont need a visible "nut" id like to dress up the butcap. I plan to file in the butcap to match the stag, but i like the look of a raised portion in the middle. Do you guys just do this on the small wheel to grind it in?

Sorry for all the questions,

Shawn.

Gary, Ive heard of other guys filling the stag with the putty also, I seem to think the liquid epoxy would do a better job of getting down in there. Although im sure its much less messy.

Shawn, personally I prefer that there not be the flat showing in the grooves, unless it is very small. It is all about getting the right piece of stag for the knife.

As for the second part, yes small wheel for me. Very carefully and at slow speed. You can also use a chainsaw file, just takes longer. I clean up with a 1/4" sleeve attachment for my foredom tool, or a dremel. I start with 220 grit sleeve and go finer from there.

Questions are good, you are only sorry if you do not ask them.

Brion