I will be watching this topic for the solder answer. I have been using JB weld in mine (thanks for that tip Lin Rhea). Other than a milling machine which I do not have either. I can say tiny files and patience (lots of patience).

Joseph,

I would recommend purchasing the book, Handles and Guards, by MS, Joe Keeslar. It goes into step by step detail (with illustrations) on how to do what you asked. It is available through the ABS Store back on the home page. Also, this forum more than likely has the answer in another thread. I use the search engine to find many answers. You may also like to search the ABS Youtube page, nothing like watching something being done, and you can watch it over and over. But, to answer your question, you would have to make a frame handled knife. It's basically a hidden tang with the guard in place. Then you install the outside frame in place with solder <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//laugh.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' /> , then the scales are pinned on. I believe there is a tutorial here on the forum. Hope that helps.

Oops, forgot to answer your question on the small guards. I rough shape mine with the small wheels on the KMG, and then finish them up while shaping the handle material.

Jared,

I'm also without a mill at the present time. I use my drill press to step drill the slot, and then I use a 1/8" carbide cylinder burr to clean out the slot to a press fit. I bought a X/Y vise and smoothed it up for the process. When I get it close (checking with my calipers) I finish up with the needle files. Saw this somewhere on the web. Go slow with slight pressure as I have broken a couple of burrs. Cut my slotting time down a bunch! I use a guard press and JB Weld as described in Lin's tutorial.

Best,

Bob

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Jared,

I'm also without a mill at the present time. I use my drill press to step drill the slot, and then I use a 1/8" carbide cylinder burr to clean out the slot to a press fit. I bought a X/Y vise and smoothed it up for the process. When I get it close (checking with my calipers) I finish up with the needle files. Saw this somewhere on the web. Go slow with slight pressure as I have broken a couple of burrs. Cut my slotting time down a bunch! I use a guard press and JB Weld as described in Lin's tutorial.

Where do you order your burrs from and what quality of x/y vice do you use?

Ooohh....so that's how they do it!! Thanks guys! I didn't realize that the metal showing on the tang was just another piece made to fit around the orginal tang.. 🙁 Oh well.... *goes back to original hidden tang bowies* <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />

Jared,

I ordered them from Enco. They are on page 234 of the online catalog. Like I said I primarily use the 1/8" cylindrical, double cut. I have several sizes, but that one seems to work best for my needs.

I bought my vise at Northern Tools. I took it apart, and lapped it to smooth it up. Still some play in it, but I lock down the y?, left to right once I have everything centered.

I would recommend buying a milling table through Grizzly, they aren't much more than the NT vise. Hind sight is 20/20, lol!

I use my old Powermatic 1100, which is variable speed and stout.

Hope This Helps!

Bob

Joseph,

Most of us will use a frame tang for Bowies that don't have a stick tang. This will allow you to slot the guard to fit the integral part of the tang and keep the slot from being exposed.

Something that I have had very good success with for replacing the solder is mixing AcraGlas with atomized stainless (fine stainless powder) which is available from Brownell's. It works great for providing a moisture barrier and has a lifespan without degrading of 100 years as well as having the capacity to be polished rather than staying a dull gray like JB Weld.

If you have any questions send me a PM or email.

Gary

Gary,

Great tip! I'll have to give it a try. Does it match up good when using nickle silver?

Thanks for sharing!

Bob

The frame handle is a good solution to this problem and this is how it was commonly done on antique Sheffield bowies, and a few American ones. But there is one more alternative.

There are antique knives by San Francisco's Michael Price, and a few other makers, that clearly were made by sliding on the guard before the tang was completely forged out. As far as I've seen these knives all have iron guards rather than something nonferrous -- makes sense as they're going back into the forge. Slide the guard on, heat up the tang, and beat it out to full width.

Attached are photos of an original Price knife made this way. I have two others, a Rau & Kohnke also from San Francisco, and a Kissam made in New York. Both of those will be in the upcoming Bowie knife exhibit to be held in Little Rock -- will be posting an announcement about that shortly.

Mark

I'll have to try that sometime!!! Thanks for those pics...I think I like that idea the best. I know a lot of chopping blades have tapered tangs, so that would work out great.

Joseph

Can't you cast the guard on the tang?

This is a full tang Bowie. The guard is notched and slid under and on the blade. It fits into a slight notch filed into the bottom of the blade. It is pinned through the blade near the top of the guard.

I just ordered an XY axis vice for my drill press now maybe I can drill a straight hole and do some milling...thanks for the tip

Yes a Grizzly

Hi Jared,

Make sure you take the time to square up the vise with the press and it should work for you. Just go slow, and tighten the gibb screws to remove any slop. I was saving for a mill, but spent it on a Little Giant. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//biggrin.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':D' />

Lin,

Very nice knife! I used that style of guard on a full tang Bowie I made. Did you file a shoulder on the flats for the guard to rest on?

Thanks!

Bob

Can't you cast the guard on the tang?

Jason,

I haven't tried this, or know anyone who has. So, I don’t have any suggestions of how it would be done. But, anything is possible. I know there have been knives that had the entire handle cast onto the blade.