Recently, at the Blade Show and the CKCA it was announced that I won the Fisk Cutlery Challenge. I thought I would share my efforts. The knife pictured is a vitreous enameled handle and accompanying sheath. Both the handle and the sheath are made from a thick copper base upon which a cobalt based enameling was applied at high temperature in a forge. I made two knives in preparation for the Challenge. The one shown below is the knife that was judged.
If your wondering what vitreous enamel on metal is, well it is similar to the enameling that might be done on a sink. Today enameling on metal is an artistic process often seen on some jewelry. "Ganoskin" is a pretty good website explaining some of the processes for jewelry. I thought I would take it a step further after being told by a couple of jewelers that it could not be done on three dimensional object (e.g., round pieces like a knife handle). To do all this I had to learn metal spinning on a lathe, metal enameling, and apply the techniques to a bladesmith forge. The enameling process is interesting and I believe I have a good handle on how to do it in a forge. Enameling temperatures are roughly 1500 F.
I should add that the colors are infinite as are the textures and patterns. The Challenge knife pictured involved a base coat of a cobalt based enamel on both the outside and inside of the handle. Then multiple layers of a white opaque enamel was added. The sheath was done in a similar manner. The green coloring on the sheath and handle was a result of numerous firings in the forge that involved the control oxidation of the underlying metal (something I created after lots of experimentation).
Hope you like it.
Here is another photo. The finial on the buttcap is also enameled. There is enameling on the spacer too.
A brief set of steps in the process:
* a copper tube is fit onto a wood mandrel (mandrel is tapered to rough handle shape)
* metal spinning of the copper tube shapes the copper to the taper of wood mandrel (spun at 1500 rpm)
* steel mandrel is use with a rubber hammer to curve the spun tube (turn the cone into a handle shape)
* copper tube is now a copper handle
* copper is prepared by sanding/cleaning to accept the enamel powder
* using a special glue, the enamel is sifted over inside and outside of copper handle
* forge brought up to 1800 F as glue dries
* once forge is radiating a high heat (over 1500 F)the forge burners are turned off and the handle is inserted into the forge
* slowly rotating the handle inside the forge until the enamel (glass) begins to melt and form a clear coating (about 5 minutes)
* handle is allowed to cool slowly in air (enamel will begin to show colors applied at about 600 F as it cools)
* repeat process with each additional layer of enamel for color/texture/patterning (only one coating of enamel on the inside of handle is required)
Dan Petersen
congratulations, and that is one cool knife!
MP
Beautiful knife and intriguing process. Thanks for sharing both.
Thanks much. The handle and sheath are impervious to acid, oxidation, and (for the most part) getting banged around. While this is glass it is glass on metal. The metal substrate has to be damaged to typically cause damage to the enamel. Again, kind of like an enameled kitchen sink which takes a lot of pots and pans banging into it. This is partly why both the inside and outside of the handle are enameled. As the vitreous enamel cools it exerts stress on the metal. This is why it is enameled on the inside as well. Enamelists refer to this as counter enameling. It also strengthens the entire structure.
I had to enamel quite a few sample pieces. I also found that enameling works best on very low carbon steel or decarburized steel. It also works well on some stainless steels. I was more successful 303L. Carbon steels tend to off gas as they cool and this can cause pitting and poor adherence. The first coat of glass (vitreous enamel) is the key. I use a ground coat with some cobalt in it that sticks really well. Thomson Enamels is the place to order enamel.
Even if someone does not want to do a full handle or sheath, the use of enamels on pommels, guards, spacers can add substantial flourish to a knife.
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Beautiful knife and intriguing process. Thanks for sharing both.
I am more than willing to share any part of the process. There were lots of errors on my part until I figure it all out. BTW the sequence is worth mentioning. I made the handle and roughed out the sheath prior to making the knife. That is obviously the reverse of what is normally done.
While the enameling was challenging, the metal spinning process was actually more challenging since all I had to go on was a few youtube videos that showed spinning disks of metal and not tubes or cylinders. Using pretty thick copper tubing made the spinning more challenging and it does (even with thin stock) require a technique that has to be learned.
Beautiful, knife, very interesting process! Thank you for sharing Dan!
Wonderfully executed. I applaud you for stepping outside of the box on this project. Thanks for sharing it here Dan.
Chris
Here is the very first knife attempt. I had two knives ready for the show with enameling. Similar design but very different enamels. This one had multiple layers of four different translucent green enamels, black enamel, and blue enamel. I just liked the other one slightly better and submitted it. The sheath for this one was the same enamel on metal with the same colors of enamel.
Here is a photo of the sheath. The damascus was a five layers forged into a square lengthwise, cut and stacked as a four-way. This was drawn out and folded and welded once more. In my press it was stood up on end and flattened and then folded once again. It produced this large circular patterns down the length of the blade. I did not want anything too dramatic to take away from the handle.
Congratulations on your win Dan!!! Cool stuff!
Very cool and congrats!
Thanks, Steve.
Wow, I just saw enameling on your website and also found this. A gem from a a few years back. I would enjoy learning the process, and apply to bolsters, etc.
