Take all of this with a grain of salt-I haven't done it yet, but have been researching as I've been planning to try this on some knives I'm working on.

From what I've seen (including Nick Wheeler on another forum), I'm planning on drilling my hole when my handle is still a block. I could be completely wrong, but I just can't figure out a good way to hold and support the handle square to the bit after it's all shaped and rounded. I'm relatively certain I'd end up with a wonky hole... After the handle is glued to the knife, the excess epoxy squeezes out. Wipe that up and use a sacrificial pin that is long. Put some Vaseline on the pin hole on one side and a bit on the end of the pin. Push the pin through and be sure there is some Vaseline on that side, too. After the handle dries, pull out the pin and your hole is still in tact (though I've heard of others who just ream the hole back open with a bit, so that way should work, too).

Once the handle is completely finished, dome one side of the pin and insert into the hole. Measure the pin and cut/grind it so it is chamfered and sticks out about the amount the pin is wide (diameter). Apparently, that is the standard amount for any given pin so it has enough to be domed without leaving too much out: extra "height" above the material is equal to the diameter of the pin stock. You're right about hitting the handle with the hammer, though. Life sucks if you mess up that far into it. From what I understand, a small ball pein hammer with a polished face and a lot of light hits will get you there. If you want to polish the head of the finished pin, put some masking tape on the handle, covering the domed pin, then go around the dome with your fingernail. Pull off the little piece that was covering the domed head and take it to the buffer. The rest of the tape protects the handle and you can buff up the pin.

There are more ways including using a set of modified nail punches to do more directional work and also keeps the hammer from whacking the handle material. I think the "issue" I'll have is making sure I can hold the knife securely with the already domed head on my anvil while I'm beating the pin with a hammer. I could be wrong and maybe it'll be easier that I'm thinking. But....they really look nice in a knife, so I've got to give it a try.... <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />. I look forward to other tips and hearing how this goes for you.

Jeremy

|quoted:

Take all of this with a grain of salt-I haven't done it yet, but have been researching as I've been planning to try this on some knives I'm working on.

From what I've seen (including Nick Wheeler on another forum), I'm planning on drilling my hole when my handle is still a block. I could be completely wrong, but I just can't figure out a good way to hold and support the handle square to the bit after it's all shaped and rounded. I'm relatively certain I'd end up with a wonky hole... After the handle is glued to the knife, the excess epoxy squeezes out. Wipe that up and use a sacrificial pin that is long. Put some Vaseline on the pin hole on one side and a bit on the end of the pin. Push the pin through and be sure there is some Vaseline on that side, too. After the handle dries, pull out the pin and your hole is still in tact (though I've heard of others who just ream the hole back open with a bit, so that way should work, too).

Once the handle is completely finished, dome one side of the pin and insert into the hole. Measure the pin and cut/grind it so it is chamfered and sticks out about the amount the pin is wide (diameter). Apparently, that is the standard amount for any given pin so it has enough to be domed without leaving too much out: extra "height" above the material is equal to the diameter of the pin stock. You're right about hitting the handle with the hammer, though. Life sucks if you mess up that far into it. From what I understand, a small ball pein hammer with a polished face and a lot of light hits will get you there. If you want to polish the head of the finished pin, put some masking tape on the handle, covering the domed pin, then go around the dome with your fingernail. Pull off the little piece that was covering the domed head and take it to the buffer. The rest of the tape protects the handle and you can buff up the pin.

There are more ways including using a set of modified nail punches to do more directional work and also keeps the hammer from whacking the handle material. I think the "issue" I'll have is making sure I can hold the knife securely with the already domed head on my anvil while I'm beating the pin with a hammer. I could be wrong and maybe it'll be easier that I'm thinking. But....they really look nice in a knife, so I've got to give it a try.... <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//smile.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':)' />. I look forward to other tips and hearing how this goes for you.

Jeremy

Thanks Jeremy - some good points I haven't thought of.

TK if you go to the ABS youtube channel, Nick Wheeler has an excellent video in two parts on domed pins. Just go to the ABS website and click on gallery in the upper left side, then click on the youtube channel link.

Good luck

Brion

Thanks Brion - I'll check it out

TK, You can easily make a clamping jig for doming the first side of the pin. By clamping a couple of pieces of 2" angle iron in a drill vice with a piece of card stock in between then drilling a hole in between them that is the same size as your pin.

Then after you take the card stock out you will have a clamp that will be just be tight enough to hold your pin stock. But not too tight to deform your pin.

So now you can clamp your pin and dome one side before you put it in. Then carefully dome the other side after you have clipped it to length. It takes less sticking out than you might think. Get it too long and you will have a sharp little edge all the way around on one side and the other side will be flush. Or you will have a pin that slides back and forth in the hole. Super glue helps, but not if it is too long. I use a needle file to take a little more off the top of the pin if I see that it is coming out too long.

Thanks Jared - goof feedback. I like your clamp idea very much.

Watch Nick's videos. You'll be glad you did!

Bob

Only thing I can add is this: use your leather punch to cut a small, pin sized hole in the tape and cover your handle in tape (leaving only the pin exposed) before you start peening the pin. That way if you miss a little, you have a better chance of not screwing up your handle. I know one MS who uses a piece of Coke can similarly, and another who uses Gorilla tape. So far for me I've just used my universal blue painter's tape, and it's been pretty good.

|quoted:

Only thing I can add is this: use your leather punch to cut a small, pin sized hole in the tape and cover your handle in tape (leaving only the pin exposed) before you start peening the pin. That way if you miss a little, you have a better chance of not screwing up your handle. I know one MS who uses a piece of Coke can similarly, and another who uses Gorilla tape. So far for me I've just used my universal blue painter's tape, and it's been pretty good.

thanks Travis - I'll try the gorilla tape. Appreciate it.