A ferrule is that brass ring that the eraser on your pencil sets in.

A ferrule is the area the bristles in a paint brush sets in.

The handle on your shovel sits in a ferrule of the shovel head.

That term is frequently misused in knife making.

Many people actually make ferrules for the handle to set in. This offers great strength and security for many handle configurations.

Most of the components that simply create a space between parts is a spacer, or collar.

A simple dictionary definition will suffice:

a ring or cap, typically a metal one, that strengthens the end of a handle, stick, or tube and prevents it from splitting or wearing.[list]

yup if it sits on top it is a spacer if it sits inside it is a ferrule

MP

thanks guys. ferrules are the things I put on the ends of my chisels when I make them, it turns out.

got it.

Not to hijack this thread. Can we have a description on how to make a seamless fit between a ferrule and the handle?

I've thought about ferrules as very practical but that seam between wood or bone and metal has never been tight enough for my liking.

not hijacking - that is a great question. I would love to hear some pointers.

One way to cut the handle material is to clamp a file to a surface plate.

While holding the END of the handle material on the surface plate, drag it along the edge of the file. This will give a consistent reduction of material on the end of the handle material.

Careful planning is needed to create the ferrule before hand.

File the handle material accordingly until it fits.

thanks Karl. I have used similar tricks for keeping lines cut in guards and spacers straight, but did not think to apply it to the end of the handle for a step to match the ferrule (and see, I now am sure about all of the terms, too).

I am guessing for some of you guys it may be hard to remember back when all of this stuff was pretty new and not automatic in your ability to understand and use your tools to improvise techniques. I am still at that early point in development, having become more serious than just a hobbyist only 2 or 3 years ago. I hope the questions do not seem ignorant. I work to find information on my own before I ask. But, this is a great group to ask, so my other hope is that the things I ask are things that others want to know. Thank you for being considerate enough to field these questions from the new guy.

kc

Kevin, on ignorant questions here. You help all of us new guys by asking these and all questions.

For the step, we could if we had a file guide that would open wide enough to allow the block to fit in it.

Mount the block in the guide and grind to the face of the file guide.

But that's a file guiled that will open at least an inch and be tall enough to accept a handle block.

I don't have on that tall or that will open that wide.

Kevin, I often consider myself lucky each day when I find the shop door.

Don't worry about the quality of questions.

They're just questions.

Kevin, there are no such thing as ignorant questions. We are all trying to learn. I have had some doozies. <img src=' http://www.americanbladesmith.com/ipboard/public/style_emoticons//laugh.gi f' class='bbc_emoticon' alt=':lol:' />

Brion

Thanks Karl and Brion.

For wider ferrules, do as Karl said and use a surface plate. Use a height gage to scribe a line around the handle that is parallel to the end. you can then file up to the line using magnification or remove the material close to the line and then shim up the file using the method that Karl described.

I make the ferrule after I reduce the handle to accept the ferrule. This way I have a tight fit--once on, it cannot come off. I make the ferrule wider that it needs to be because I have to knock it on with a piece of wood. I can then dress the ferrule down to the end of the handle.

It also helps to chamfer the inside of the ferrule that goes against the handle material in case the shoulder that you filed into the handle is not a sharp crisp corner.

Also, if you make the ferrule tight, it will conform slightly when you knock it on is your shoulder has VERY SLIGHT deviations.

Brian

For relieving a handle to accept a ferrule, I use a Roto-Zip inverted in a bench vise

with a plexiglass plate glued on, through which a 1/8" carbide mill cutter protrudes.

The cutter height is adjusted slightly less than the thickness of the ferrule, Once

the first cut is made, I readjust the cutter for a more precise finished cut.

The ferrule is drilled, then filed to fit.